Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

5 minutes ago, Rychiie said:

How would you describe the pedal feel? Is it really stiff/heavy?

Very light.  Light as or lighter than stock. 
the issue with grabby clutches is trying to modulate them, and the fact they don’t want to modulate. 

I've got one in an R33 GTST track car, with around 300 RWKW. Mine is the Xtreme "230mm twin plate race clutch with ceramic solid centre" - they have a few different twin plate options so not sure if this is the same one.

Pedal feel is good, and very light (certainly lighter than the single plate Xtreme ceramic puck that was in before, probably lighter than stock clutch). I don't find it hard to modulate, but I don't drive it on the street, only the track. Full noise starts are easy, no issues with it being too "grabby".

Like Ben, cost (around $1000 less than a Nismo) and local support were factors, plus the previous single plate Xtreme lasted a lot longer than I expected it to given the harsh environment & power level. I don't regret buying it.

  • Like 1

I am also considering the standard nismo super coppermix but im unsure of the actual rating. It states 471 KW however im not sure if they measure it from the flywheel or at the wheel.
 

What do you guys think?

Look just buy a clutch and try it, it won't be the last one you ever buy. But to answer the question again:

Nismo more driveable but would hold less power than the Xtreme twin. Xtreme twin less progressive, but you can't have your cake and eat it too. (compared to a standard organic full face clutch anyway.)

If that is your choice of clutches, personally I'd go with the xclutch on price, and ACS after sales support in Adelaide is really really good. They supplied me with all the ATS carbon triple clutches too/

  • Like 2

Um, the comp version of the Nismo is <$50 more and >100kW more. I know which one I would buy if I was looking at 400rwkW.

This is just me harping on a subject that I have little direct experience with though. So listen to the others ref the Extreme. I have an Extreme clutch behind my Neo, but it is a baby clutch, so not relevant. Except inasmuch as it did have a mechanical problem years after I bought it and Extreme covered something like half the replacement cost, even though it was well used. They are good people.

Look it's rwd, the right single will hold it, but a multiplate is obviously better for more surface area, therefore better torque holding. 

Your overthinking it. Personally I'm not a fan of the Nismo clutches, had one once, never again. That's in launched GTRs, they just don't last repeated 7000+ rpm 4WD launches (waits for the Nismo coppermix brigade to chime in saying they are the best clutch ever).

Anyway sounds like you've got your mind made up so I don't really understand why you're still asking.

Buy one, try it, let us know what you think.

Um, when any clutch is engaged, how can it be noisy ? It's clamped so where is this noise you speak of coming from ? Do you mean disengaged (foot on clutch) and makes the signature Multi plate rattle, which all multiplates do ?

41 minutes ago, BK said:

Um, when any clutch is engaged, how can it be noisy

Sorry, pretty sure I didn't say engaged.

 

Released, as in not engaged, as in depressed. Sorry if my terms don't meet your approval - actually no I'm not, I couldn't give a f**k. I was pointing something out to someone who may or may not know how noisy a multiplate can be, not looking for a rude reply from you. If you know as much as you claim, you'd know what I meant by released - don't make up shit to make yourself look like an expert.

 

What's with the attitude ? Was not trying to be rude. Not making anything up, released was a shit term to use. I could use the term released as my foot not on the clutch, for example (clutch pedal is released). It was very clear what I meant, not what you meant. Having a go is not what I meant at all. I was not having a go, only clarifing. All multiplates generally do the rattle when depressed / disengaged mate, that's what I was getting at.

There are multiplates that don't rattle in the oem world, not sure in aftermarket.

It is a fair racket but at least you know why your car is making a crazy noise, people in the drive through not so much

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
×
×
  • Create New...