Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, my first post on here. So long story short I own an R33 Skyline Series 1 RB25DE auto from 1993, and its completely stock. I went down to the shops and the car was driving fine, started fine etc.. but when leaving the shops, I did what I normally do by putting the key in the ignition, turning it to the "ON" part, clicking the immobiliser button in, and the dash lights/ radio all lit up as usual for a second or two, and just before i turned the key to start the engine the dash lights/ radio lights just shut off. I had my mechanic whos a family friend come out to look at it, as I suspected it was maybe a flat battery, but we were getting 12.57V to the battery in the boot, we tried to jump start but to no avail. Something else that was odd was to the terminals in the engine bay where you can jump start from also, we were getting no voltage reading, but he said it may have been because the terminals were so dirty. He seemed to think it could be a fuse issue or immobilser but he didn't have the tools to help/ didnt wanna mess with the immobilser or fuses. My cars stranded at the local shops for 48hrs until I can claim service from RAC as I only just signed up for it tonight. Has anyone had a similar issue or maybe could point me in the right direction as to what is wrong with it? Also theres a little red light that will flash 24/7 next to the ignition and when the key first gets put in (without turning at all) theres a beeping sound which I suspect is the alarm, but even that red light wont flash at all. I hope this isn't the end of the road for my car :( any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks guys

Edited by Kyle1234

Didnt make it completely clear, but in short the dash lights wouldn't turn on at all. No crank either when turning key which usually would mean flat battery also. Theres a little green light on the immobilser that will light up when pressing it, and that is lighting up fine, so I guess its not a dead battery in my immobilser? 

18 minutes ago, Kyle1234 said:

Theres a little green light on the immobilser that will light up when pressing it, and that is lighting up fine, so I guess its not a dead battery in my immobilser? 

Doesn't take much power to light that little lcd mate, my remote stopped operating the immobilizer, but was still lighting up. Batteries are cheap. Also check your earth lead.

Edited by Rusty Nuts

Auto-elec will work out what is wrong with it in about 5 minutes. It will be the ignition switch failed, or something equally dull. Or maybe the shitty immobiliser thing hiding in there. In which case your auto-eleccy will curse your name as he pulls it out because they hate them because they do this sort of shit.

You should just pay for a tow to get it out of the carpark and into a workshop.

47 minutes ago, trel said:

Another thing before calling an auto elec just pull out fuses one by one if you can't find the English translated panel on the net and look for a busted fuse,  replace with same rating as necessary. 

With your alarm system, did you remove that yourself? I found an image on google that as this but im not sure what category the alarm fuse would be under. I might just wait till RAC can help tomorrow night, and if they cant then get an auto elec to come look at it, i would have a go myself but i just dont wanna fk it up moreImage result for r33 fuse box english

You're not looking for the fuse that feeds the alarm. You're looking for ANY fuse that might be blown and hence interfering with the car starting.

Any decent alarm installer should never take power from a fused source in the fusebox. They should take power direct from a hot feed and the alarm should have its own fuse.

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

You're not looking for the fuse that feeds the alarm. You're looking for ANY fuse that might be blown and hence interfering with the car starting.

Any decent alarm installer should never take power from a fused source in the fusebox. They should take power direct from a hot feed and the alarm should have its own fuse.

Yeah as gts said. Stick your head under the steering column you should see some wires with fuses on them, most likely for the alarm, check them out. Other than that I can't help anymore.

I got a mobile auto elec to take it out for me car was completely dead. Should cost no more than $200 for a mobile guy to remove it. I paid  $185 for an hour plus his callout. Anymore than that and they're ripping you a new one.

Hey guys, so after getting the rac to jump start the car and get it back tomy house it was still dead, turns out the metal under the bolts where the earth lead comes up to the battery had been painted over, which caused issues, and my earth cable is actually too small and being strangled a bit so gotta replace that. These older rac guys are so knowledgable its crazy, the young bloke who got my car out of the shops just said it was a dead battery but batterys actually fine in the end. Thanks so much to everyone that replied in this thread it helped me a lot to try and diagnose the issue, and get a better understanding! Legends!!

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...