Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1992 Dark Blue Coupe Auto for sale complete unmodified good condition.

First registered July 2007, original Australian owner.

Odometer reading under 100000 km.

Basically imported then stored, good condition, panels are straight, paint is dull ,it will be coming out of the garage next week to be cleaned and photographed.

 

Brisbane .

$15000 AUD

Mike. 0404235859

 

 

  

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479755-for-sale-r32gtst-m-type-coupe/
Share on other sites

I will publish the photographs next weekend when I'm home.

No sunroof or front spoiler. No aftermarket accessories.  

Unregistered.

Edited by Missileman
more detail
On 23/02/2020 at 2:26 PM, Missileman said:

would you like to arrange an inspection?

No. 

Personal opinion, if you are going to price an auto 32 at 15k, give the car a decent detail. 

Without inspecting it, I don't want to say it's overpiced, but posting pics of it with it covered in dust, flat tyre, not vacuumed, just gives an impression of disrepair. 

Based on the images my expectation going into an inspection would be to buy the car for around 4-5k. And that's it if turns on and selects/holds gears. 

17 hours ago, PWND said:

I don't want to say it's overpiced

Almost every Skyline is overpriced these days. They're all chasing the idea that 1990 GTR 32's are worth 2.5 times what they were worth in 2014.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...