Am i unlucky

[V35_Paul]

19 hours ago, xmanz said:

ok that sounds not too bad is the timing cover one piece or is there a top section thats not behind pumps and  things...

btw i had a search for v36 workshop manual  and g36 for 2007  cant locate any ideas

https://ownersmanuals2.com/d/52111

2008.

pretty close 

[xmanz]

update on my troubles  

mechanic checked all the cooling system over..no apparent issues

went to next stage took throttle body off and compession tested it and then a leakdown test ...........both no issues

he then put back together and vac test the system    no issues\

He is a bit stumped but did say maybe the water pump is sucking air behind the timing cover  anybody seen anything like this???

he said there where bubble coming up on compession test on any of the cylinders.....    is it possible to suck air in somewhere else?

thank you    

[KiwiRS4T]

17 minutes ago, xmanz said:

 

he said there where bubble coming up on compession test on any of the cylinders.....    is it possible to suck air in somewhere else?

thank you    

Could you rewrite this sentence please? Its a bit hard to work out what you are saying.

Did he say yes there were bubbles in the radiator when some or all of the cylinders were compression tested or no there were not?

BTW you're out on a limb in Napier - I have good contacts in Auckland but none there... and yes you  have to pull the front of the car off to get at things which is why replacement timing chains are so expensive...(so if you end up doing this good idea to have the chain and chain guides checked at they are a weak pint on the VQ25).

[xmanz]

13 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Could you rewrite this sentence please? Its a bit hard to work out what you are saying.

Did he say yes there were bubbles in the radiator when some or all of the cylinders were compression tested or no there were not?

BTW you're out on a limb in Napier - I have good contacts in Auckland but none there... and yes you  have to pull the front of the car off to get at things which is why replacement timing chains are so expensive...(so if you end up doing this good idea to have the chain and chain guides checked at they are a weak pint on the VQ25).

He infered to me that winding it over doing compression test  he saw bubbles   and no matter which cylinder he did  he saw bubles these are not fine bubbles but  like a burp      btw  v36   

i got the g35 manual

[KiwiRS4T]

29 minutes ago, xmanz said:

He infered to me that winding it over doing compression test  he saw bubbles   and no matter which cylinder he did  he saw bubles these are not fine bubbles but  like a burp      btw  v36   

i got the g35 manual

Ok one more question...did you watch the mechanic do the pressure test and what happened? Did the pressure go down without any sign of water spurting out?

Here is a test kit along the lines of what GTSBoy was suggesting earlier (you may be able to get a similar one cheaper from your local Repco or Supercheap) that you can use yourself:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/other/listing-2596027845.htm?rsqid=e736fd9eb1f5494eb91b42a7ed009919-001

If this test comes out positive you have a problem. If it comes out negative (no exhaust gas in bubbles) then it is still possible you need a good bleed of the air in the system (especially if this problem arose following a service where the coolant was changed).

OR you do a good bleed now anyway: Get the front of the car as high as possible (up a steep drive, on a set of ramps, or jacked up as high as) and also find a plastic bottle (coke , milk, anything with the bottom cut off) the neck of which will fit tightly in the tube after you have taken the radiator cap off. Start the engine and turn your heater(s)  on full. Idle until the thermostat opens (you can tell by the hoses  heating up) and add water to the plastic bottle (half full will do). Continue to add water if necessary and watch for the bubbles to stop. Give it a good 20 minutes or so. If the bubbles stop put the cap back on and hopefully its cured!

BTW as a matter of interest how far can you drive the car before it overheats?

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, KiwiRS4T said:

OR you do a good bleed now anyway: Get the front of the car as high as possible (up a steep drive, on a set of ramps, or jacked up as high as) and also find a plastic bottle (coke , milk, anything with the bottom cut off) the neck of which will fit tightly in the tube after you have taken the radiator cap off. Start the engine and turn your heater(s)  on full. Idle until the thermostat opens (you can tell by the hoses  heating up) and add water to the plastic bottle (half full will do). Continue to add water if necessary and watch for the bubbles to stop. Give it a good 20 minutes or so. If the bubbles stop put the cap back on and hopefully its cured!

+ also open all bleed screws that you can find to get air out of trapped spots. RBs have a couple, I would guess that VQs probably would too. YOu don't just open them and leave them. Open and close them regularly while you're leaving it running to bleed up as above. Bubbles will collect at the high points as they come around the system. The screws give you the opportunity to get them out.

[xmanz]

2 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Ok one more question...did you watch the mechanic do the pressure test and what happened? Did the pressure go down without any sign of water spurting out?

Here is a test kit along the lines of what GTSBoy was suggesting earlier (you may be able to get a similar one cheaper from your local Repco or Supercheap) that you can use yourself:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/other/listing-2596027845.htm?rsqid=e736fd9eb1f5494eb91b42a7ed009919-001

If this test comes out positive you have a problem. If it comes out negative (no exhaust gas in bubbles) then it is still possible you need a good bleed of the air in the system (especially if this problem arose following a service where the coolant was changed).

OR you do a good bleed now anyway: Get the front of the car as high as possible (up a steep drive, on a set of ramps, or jacked up as high as) and also find a plastic bottle (coke , milk, anything with the bottom cut off) the neck of which will fit tightly in the tube after you have taken the radiator cap off. Start the engine and turn your heater(s)  on full. Idle until the thermostat opens (you can tell by the hoses  heating up) and add water to the plastic bottle (half full will do). Continue to add water if necessary and watch for the bubbles to stop. Give it a good 20 minutes or so. If the bubbles stop put the cap back on and hopefully its cured!

BTW as a matter of interest how far can you drive the car before it overheats?

i didnt see the test but he said the compression was i think 190 on all no loss  and the leakdown  no issues,

btw thank you for all the info much appreciated       also the car has never overheated just hear bubble sound form behind dash when i started the car..upon opening bonnet the resivour was pretty full......so ill try the bleeding  scenario 

[xmanz]

16 hours ago, xmanz said:

i didnt see the test but he said the compression was i think 190 on all no loss  and the leakdown  no issues,

btw thank you for all the info much appreciated       also the car has never overheated just hear bubble sound form behind dash when i started the car..upon opening bonnet the resivour was pretty full......so ill try the bleeding  scenario 

Ok with lockdown cant get a co2 device but i sloped the car, filled the bottle half full sealed onto radiator,,,,,youl see vid 1 which is 5 mins in     video 2  12 minutes in   and video 3 20 mins.

i guess my dumb mechanic didnt do this as youl see by vid 3  it shows what i presume is indeed compression/exhaust gases into water/////   Thank you for looking, the coolent did have a bottle of some  hoodoo in it to hopefully plug leaks by mechanic,,,   last vid is when engine is switched off...

Edited April 15, 2020 by xmanz

[KiwiRS4T]

Close it up and drive it. If it has not been overheating just keep an eye on the water level. Certainly wouldn't be pulling it apart at this stage. Worth doing it again to see if it gets less. If not definitely do the gas test. You may be able to get a kit from Repco or Supercheap on line as they are allowed to ship "essential" items. 

[xmanz]

1 hour ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Close it up and drive it. If it has not been overheating just keep an eye on the water level. Certainly wouldn't be pulling it apart at this stage. Worth doing it again to see if it gets less. If not definitely do the gas test. You may be able to get a kit from Repco or Supercheap on line as they are allowed to ship "essential" items. 

i have to mention also  power is down and uses more fuel that what it used to....  i may want to sell in a year or so and i cant sell this..lol

[xmanz]

righty ho

 I managed to get a test kit  and on 2 different occasions it didnt turn yellow which is good news i guess  .

[GTSBoy]

Yup, so now you're looking for a bleeding problem. Perhaps it has a small leak somewhere that sucks air in as it cools down.