Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 rear sub frame/ suspension interchangeability

Ravinesh
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ravinesh Apprentice

Ravinesh

Posted
Posted

would anyone be able to confirm if the following are same the guys in the workshop misplaced the rear sub frame for my R33.

1. is the R33 4 door rear subframe same as the C33 Laurel one. I have access to one for a Laurel but need confirmation before I dismantle.

2. would the A31/ S13 front ball joint be the same for the RWD R33 ones

Rusty Nuts Experienced

Rusty Nuts

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm just informing what the parts manual says buddy, thats all iv'e got. Matching part numbers. I'm still trying to wrap my head around how they could lose a subframe WTF.

Edited by Rusty Nuts
PLYNX Mentor

PLYNX

Posted
Posted

They didn't lose it 

Happened to me with a custom tow bar years ago with my first Skyline.

Work shop took it off to do some work on the car and when a a metal collection guy came around scavenging for scrap steel they told him to take it.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, WR33KD said:

I thought that r32 and r33 and s14 had very similar subframes but they can change the track a little.

R32 and S13 have same geometry.

R33 and S14 (and I guess, R34 and S15) have same geometry, which is different to the earlier ones, with better anti-squat properties.

Fitting the later ones into earlier chassis (or vice versa, if you're so demented as to want to do it) requires offset bushes to deal with the width difference.

C33/4 and all other similar cars (ie Cefiro, etc) will either be the same as R32 or R33, depending on whether they were being produced at the same time. The 2s and the 3s and the 4s don't line up.

HICAS or non-HICAS is the other big difference. I put an A31 subframe into my R32 to get rid of HICAS. It's the same thing as an R32 non-HICAS subframe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...