Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I've been taking a look at new accessory pulleys (water, PS, alternator) as part of something I might want to refresh as part of my R32 GTR engine build. I'm shooting for around 450-500 wheel hp for a street car and am planning on replacing the factory harmonic balancer with one from Fluidampr if that is relevant to my question. 

I've noticed that my accessory pulleys seem to have a little bit of surface wear (surface rust?) on the ribbing where the pulleys contact the belts. No issues or abnormalities with the pulley or vehicle performance but I figured if I'm going to have them removed as part of the engine build, why not replace them while they're easy to access.

Does anyone have experience with Greddy or KTS "lightweight" pulley kits? I'm not really expecting any performance improvement but rather just replacing for durability. I've heard that they are larger than factory and underdriven pulleys can cause unwanted side effects like low alternator voltage or reduced cooling at low rpm. Has anyone experienced this?

https://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-greddy-pulley-kit-bnr32.html

https://www.rhdjapan.com/kts-sc-pulley-pulley-system-3-pc-set-bnr32.html

They are the same price, possibly cheaper where I am, as OEM pulleys, but I wouldn't want to chance dead batteries or a hotter engine in traffic. Should I bother replacing my pulleys at all if the wear is normal? 

This isn't my pulley, but shows what I mean when I say "wear" 

ea58a916a8c87450edf5a049e7ba3e1a.png

 

Have used an ebay-knockoff version, on an rb25. The powersteering pulley didn't fit, and the alternator pulley caused too much voltage loss. Water pump pulley fitted but needed washers behind otherwise it scrapes on the harmonic balancer, and needs a different sized belt with it obviously. Maybe a minor difference in responsiveness? Nothing huge.

The quality/finish of them was good though btw, no issues at all in that regard, and no real cooling issues, although my car keeps very low even temps anyway, with bonnet venting.

Greddy have 2 sizes, standard and underdriven. I know this because I spent a frustrating weekend fitting a second set to the race car to discover both the alternator and power steer pulleys were standard size not underdriven as I wanted.

Yes, the alternator charges about .1 volt lower. No impact I've seen. The PS underdriven PS pulley is 140mm across compared to 130mm across factory (7% underdriven) and the (hicas removed) steering is heavy but nice.

I've been running the original set for 15 years and they have lasted well. The annodising is long gone from the belt drive ribs but as they are ally that is no issue. Having said that, I have never heard of someone having trouble with the standard pulleys either.

All I can see for the standard size, aftermarket pulleys is they look a lot nicer.

  • Like 3

Thanks for the insights. So it seems that if I fit standard size pulleys then I won't have the voltage or PS side effects.

Is the wear on the OEM pulleys anything worth concern or is there a way to gauge when one should replace them? I might just replace them with the aluminum and be done with it. 

Is there a part number for the greddy standard pulley kit? There seems to only be 1 size that is sold currently. 

Edit: Dug around and back in the day greddy made an 'oversized' kit which has since been discontinued. 

https://www.nengun.com/greddy/pulley-kit-oversized

This leads me to assume the one currently available is the standard size

Edited by nouveau_poor

Sorry for the crap quality but this is the the best angle I could get on them. Similar to the photo up top, the belt ribbing area seems to have gotten some of what appears to be surface rust over the last 30 years, like how Duncan was describing the anodizing coming off his Greddy's I presume. If it's as easy as just giving them a good clean while they're off then I might as well do that and save a few bucks. If not, well that's why I'm looking at potential replacements.

pulley.thumb.jpg.ac23650a548348399f9533d3a407f0d8.jpg

10 hours ago, Duncan said:

Yes, the alternator charges about .1 volt lower. 

mine dropped down to around 12.5-12.8v (from memory, was years ago now, but something like that) at idle. The pulley was massively lighter than the stock steel one but, too low V for a daily driver.

It won't be a daily driver, more a weekend/pleasure car but it seems like the consensus is that light pulleys will cause some form of drop, so it'd be wise to just leave them be if the OEM pulleys can keep on chugging. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...