Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, so I can't find a guide on it but when you turn on the key to the "on" position (the one where all the electronics turn on, but not cranking the actual car) do the spark plugs fire up? or is it only when  you actually crank the car the spark plugs fire? Also will the car turn to the "on" position with the coilpacks disconnected? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480408-how-does-the-on-key-position-work/
Share on other sites

The spark pkugs never just fire up, they are fired by the engine at the correct time in relation to crankshaft position. They don't just turn on.

 

Yes the car will turn to the on position with coil packs disconnected, there's no interlock in any of that stuff

7 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

The spark pkugs never just fire up, they are fired by the engine at the correct time in relation to crankshaft position. They don't just turn on.

 

Yes the car will turn to the on position with coil packs disconnected, there's no interlock in any of that stuff

I would assume the crankshaft doesnt rotate until the car is on? thanks for the speedy response man. One other thing if i may ask can fuel injector spray out fuel without the return line hooked up?

15 minutes ago, silviaz said:

I would assume the crankshaft doesnt rotate until the car is on? thanks for the speedy response man. One other thing if i may ask can fuel injector spray out fuel without the return line hooked up?

Depends what you mean by that. The fuel goes through the rail, then to the reg then to return. If reg is there yes fuel will spray out of injectors, and out of return line

If you want the ECU to think the engine is turning when it isn't (eg to see if an injector clicks open and closed or a spark plug fires), remove the crank angle sensor (but leave it plugged in to the loom) turn the key to ON and turn the rear spindle of the crank angle sensor. ECU sees some RPM (probably pretty low) and does it's thing

Just now, Duncan said:

If you want the ECU to think the engine is turning when it isn't (eg to see if an injector clicks open and closed or a spark plug fires), remove the crank angle sensor (but leave it plugged in to the loom) turn the key to ON and turn the rear spindle of the crank angle sensor. ECU sees some RPM (probably pretty low) and does it's thing

Ah ok thanks, I just wanted to make sure when u put the key on the "on" positon, (before the cranking to turn the car on) that the spark plug doesnt actually fire up

2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

The spark pkugs never just fire up, they are fired by the engine at the correct time in relation to crankshaft position. They don't just turn on.

 

Yes the car will turn to the on position with coil packs disconnected, there's no interlock in any of that stuff

Oh man sorry to bother but one very last thing a while back i lost my fuel rail spacer and used a metal washer, can this cause injector leaks?

20 minutes ago, silviaz said:

Oh man sorry to bother but one very last thing a while back i lost my fuel rail spacer and used a metal washer, can this cause injector leaks?

If the washer is the correct thickness that is fine.

On 5/18/2020 at 7:00 PM, Ben C34 said:

The spark pkugs never just fire up, they are fired by the engine at the correct time in relation to crankshaft position. They don't just turn on.

 

Yes the car will turn to the on position with coil packs disconnected, there's no interlock in any of that stuff

Hey Ben, I was hoping to get your opinion on aftermarket fuel injector o-rings, do you think it's a bad idea?

8 hours ago, silviaz said:

Hey Ben, I was hoping to get your opinion on aftermarket fuel injector o-rings, do you think it's a bad idea?

So long as they are for fuel injectors and the correct size any are fine

No way would I use genuine orings. They are a ripofff

On 5/23/2020 at 8:12 AM, Ben C34 said:

So long as they are for fuel injectors and the correct size any are fine

No way would I use genuine orings. They are a ripofff

Ok thanks, I had a leaky fuel injector according to a mechanic he sprayed it with water and we saw steam or something. I pulled out the injector and the seal looks in great condition, so thinking is it even the injector?

Just now, Ben C34 said:

That doent make sense.

So basically, I wanted to find out what my rough idle was  once the car was warmed up and he said it sounded like an air leak, he then proceeded to pour some water over the injector area. and when he got to the last injector he saw it was smoking after pouring the water and said the o ring inside needs to be replaced. I did get the injector out but the o-ring looks like brand new.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...