Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AssumIng you have two cars one with 4wd and one rwd, if you could overcome grip issue would 4wd and rwd have same acceleration givrn engine hp and weight is same?

Also does anyone here drive 700+ rb25? Is it laggy on 2.5 engine?

 

i wonder why i didn't change my bottom end to 3 liter to get much better torque and smaller lag

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480449-acceleration-rwd/
Share on other sites

For instance i wonder how a 2 liter evo can get 0-60 on 3.4 sec with 2 liter engine

 

lag will be huge and need 3 sec to get to the rev band

 

i am interested as no matter what power, R34 with 2.5 engine struggles to get low 0-60

 

also what is correlation between engine size and fuel consumption. Me thinking engine of 2.5 should consume much smaller fuel than 4.4

 

my m5 consumes less With 560 than the r34

i can only think of new technology and extreme precision on mapping but still there is almost 2 liter difference and fuel usage is same

Edited by drifter17a

All things being equal 4wd will always have better grip than 2wd

Fuel consumption is a function of power, weight (total work done) and efficiency.

In my view especially for a road car an RB30  is going to be better than an RB25 or even 26 or 28.

I have seen torque amp which is 48v turbo proving around 4 psi so it seems to match torque at very low rpm to what you achieve at 3.5k rpm hence boosting street acceleration 

 

i am done spending more money on rb25 as it is laggy so think if I put a top mount turbo with bigger turbo it will make acceleration even slower as boost will kick in around 4k

If your RB25 is in good condition consider getting a turbo from Hypergear. Read through some of his last few pages to see the results he is getting from his cost effective turbos.

But if its in need of a rebuild consider an RB30. With better than 9:1 compression you will get better pickup even off boost.

5 hours ago, drifter17a said:

lag will be huge and need 3 sec to get to the rev band

When launching a car the revs will be high and the turbo will then be able to make boost pretty quick, but the most obvious thing is a car doing that kind of time would be using launch control and making boost with the clutch disengaged before launching= no lag at all. Rolling on throttle is a different story.

 

You should have put a supercharged v8 in the car.

8 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

When launching a car the revs will be high and the turbo will then be able to make boost pretty quick, but the most obvious thing is a car doing that kind of time would be using launch control and making boost with the clutch disengaged before launching= no lag at all. Rolling on throttle is a different story.

 

You should have put a supercharged v8 in the car.

Actually I have been looking at getting an M35 Stagea and an LS engine is looking more attractive than VH41 or VK56.

LS1 might be cheaper but VK56 is a pretty nice engine :) The good folks at harrop do a suitable kit.

And you wont be happy with an M35 after having had a good C34 for a while, just look at all those posts over the years. They are not the same animals at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...