Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are you after the socket you pictured or the plug with loom that plugs into it. And where are you located (no location in profile...)

I probably have a plug I don't need, but I would have binned the unit with socket. On the bright side there should be plenty of them that people have removed when they direct wired their pumps

I'll have a double check but that is the sort of module I would chuck because I'd never need one.

Without going too far off topic, is there a reason you need to keep it in the system? Running a separate full voltage wire from the battery (via a relay of course) would give you better flow from the pump....

5 hours ago, Duncan said:

I'll have a double check but that is the sort of module I would chuck because I'd never need one.

Without going too far off topic, is there a reason you need to keep it in the system? Running a separate full voltage wire from the battery (via a relay of course) would give you better flow from the pump....

yea just so i can make the circuit up on a board 2x fuel pump controllers 2 x relays then make a harness that with just plug into the stock fuel module plug.. that's all

Yep, plus using DTM connectors are such a luxury to work with compared to 30 year old brittle OEM connectors. 

If your only doing a few connectors, you can get open barrel pins to save you from buying a Deutsch closed barrel crimper. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...