Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good day guys, so I've finished doing a couple of mods on my RB20DET GTS-T, got a base map put on to my Nistune ECU and now unfortunately on idle it blows smoke out like crazy. It was smoking slightly before i pulled everything apart but I had thought it was the turbo seals hence why i replaced the turbo and a few other things.

4" Straight through exhaust doesn't help either I can imagine. Symptoms include on start up generally after about 15-20 seconds she starts to smoke white clouds, as she warms up the smoke intensifies. I've done a compression test this morning and the results followed from cam cover to firewall, 150/140/145/145/150/150 PSI. 

I am leaning towards maybe the head gasket might have a crack in it or blown. But not enough evidence points towards this maybe?, No mixing of oil and water within the engine, I can say she's taking a bit of water not from the radiator but from the overflow tank. 

I don't mind pulling off the head to do a head gasket but bloody annoying since i just put the dam thing back together and thought it was ready for a dyno tune. 

I have ordered a leak down tester tool just waiting for that to come in, but welcome to any suggestions and theories or experience from you fellow members all input is appreciated cheers guys! 

skyline4.jpg

skyline3.jpg

skyline2.jpg

Skyline1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480969-rb20det-really-smokey-on-idle/
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, JarodC said:

No mixing of oil and water within the engine, I can say she's taking a bit of water not from the radiator but from the overflow tank. 

 

You are losing coolant from your expansion tank, there's your clue right there.

9 minutes ago, JarodC said:

Goes to nowhere, just collects and drains if needed 

 

is that catch can sealed? If so, that is not at all how that should be done and will cause damage. 

Edited by TurboTapin
11 minutes ago, TurboTapin said:

is that catch can sealed? If so, that is not at all how that should be done and will cause damage. 

Yeah man it's sealed, bugger what would be the best solution to this? drill and tap a fitting for allowing the oil to drain out or change the catch can setup entirely? If not what damages can be caused and how so. I know it effects the crank case pressure 

47 minutes ago, JarodC said:

Yeah man it's sealed, bugger what would be the best solution to this? drill and tap a fitting for allowing the oil to drain out or change the catch can setup entirely? If not what damages can be caused and how so. I know it effects the crank case pressure 

You have plugged up your engine. What you have done makes no sense and won't work. It is worse than the factory setup. It will cause smoking but as mentioned it really looks like a head gasket though.

 

You need to research how to plumb a catch can also while the car is apart

46 minutes ago, JarodC said:

Yeah man it's sealed, bugger what would be the best solution to this? drill and tap a fitting for allowing the oil to drain out or change the catch can setup entirely? If not what damages can be caused and how so. I know it effects the crank case pressure 

Your issue is not the oil drain, it's the fact that you basically sealed up your engine. I'm blown away you have not been sending dip sticks to the moon every time you start your car lol. 

Do not start the car back up like that. If you want to keep your hoses setup the same way, replace your sealed air/oil seperator with a vented catch can (The ones with a filter on top). I prefer running an oem type setup with 2x sealed air/oil seperators. 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

Your issue is not the oil drain, it's the fact that you basically sealed up your engine. I'm blown away you have not been sending dip sticks to the moon every time you start your car lol. 

Do not start the car back up like that. If you want to keep your hoses setup the same way, replace your sealed air/oil seperator with a vented catch can (The ones with a filter on top). I prefer running an oem type setup with 2x sealed air/oil seperators. 

 

 

 

 

 

Man thank you so much! I took your advice and un-plumbed the catch can. Got it up to operating temperature and she didn't smoke! little bit but nothing like how she used too. Something I had just totally over looked. I topped up the coolant levels and ran the car for a while and coolant levels did not drop. 

Mind you guys i haven't started the car or left it running for long at all. I had gotten it back from the tuner and he told he it was really smokey so I only bought it home and ran it for a little while. then left it in the garage. Today I let it warm up and cool down 3 times and checked for oil levels, mixture, coolant levels and so on. It seems to be promising i hope! 

1 hour ago, Gojira34 said:

Just a thought about the smoke, could it be too much oil in turbo? Did you use restrictor in the feed line?

Yeah so its not a ball bearing turbo, Journal bearing turbo the fitting flange hole from where the turbo feed line connects to is about 3-3.5mm. Do you reckon that's fine?

4 minutes ago, JarodC said:

. I had gotten it back from the tuner and he told he it was really smokey

So your tuner didn't spot the incredibly obvious catch can issue...... That's concerning.

6 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

So your tuner didn't spot the incredibly obvious catch can issue...... That's concerning.

Nah I only dropped off the vehicle to him to get a base map put onto the ECU for me to be able to start up the car and tow it in for paint. He was extremely busy as we had our Chrome Expression car event coming up. So he only had the car for about half a day before I towed it back home. Thank you for spotting out the mistake though hopefully it hasn't caused any major issues 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
On 16/08/2020 at 1:52 PM, JarodC said:

Yeah so its not a ball bearing turbo, Journal bearing turbo the fitting flange hole from where the turbo feed line connects to is about 3-3.5mm. Do you reckon that's fine?

Hey mate, it really depends on size the turbo, not sure what yours is? But would think 3-5mm should be fine?! 

most say -4an fittings, but I’m no mechanic, just what I’ve learned in forums.
just have good drain for the oil!

I Learnt hard way when I had my Vl RB30E+t, I just had some braided lines made up and bolted up to turbo! ? found out I needed a restrictor as was smoking like your photo!
anyway seems like it was the breather! Hope all good!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
×
×
  • Create New...