Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good morning everybody. I’ve searched on this and can’t find anything on my specific problem. So I’m having a slight “annoyance” with my drivers door lock. The driver door will not lock/unlock by the switch (but the passenger door works just fine). Manually locking the door via the key or inside the car will lock the door (and the passenger side door). Now, the really annoying part is from the time I start the car to the time I shut it down, every 3 or 4 seconds the driver door lock attempts to actuate. This doesn’t always happen, but happens enough to drive me crazy when driving with the windows up. I should add that the speed sensitive auto locks have never worked. I was thinking of snipping the green wire at the brain to disable the feature altogether, hoping this would remedy my problem, but I wanted to find some more information before I decided to do that. Any thoughts? Car is a 95 GTS25T S1 without keyless entry or any type of alarm. Thanks!

Hmmmmm . . . . check the drivers side door window control unit.

Some one may have replaced it with a later model one out of a series 2 and fiddled with the electrical wiring to get it to work.

From memory a Series 1 has a 9 pin plug and a Series 2 a 11 pin plug . . . or was it vice versa ? ? ( oh my Oldtimers disease is at maximum at the moment ! )

I'm sure some one on here can confirm that.

 

1 hour ago, PLYNX said:

Hmmmmm . . . . check the drivers side door window control unit

Thats actually the Power window amplifier part number 28515-15U00 the small smd relays fail inside. Very common. All three  of my family S1 R33's have failed with various problems but same unit. New they are $270 plus freight.

Edited by Rusty Nuts
spelling

So could that have something to do with a very “loose” driver window switch? You even look at the switch and the window goes down. Also, the driver window works most of the time, but when I’m putting up both windows at the same time, the driver door sometimes waits a few seconds before working  

Also, what is the purpose of this amplifier, exactly? 

Edited by LiteraCola

"Loose drivers switch" part of the button has broken away on the inside button itself.

This holds a small white plastic spring loaded pin.

Pop the button of carefully, after taking the unit out, and look for the broken plastic bits, clean out the lubrication grease with ethanol and super glue ( I believe it called crazy glue in the US ) back together.

Bit of a fiddly job and you may have to put a small piece of supporting plastic in to stop it breaking off again . . . . or you can buy a whole new unit for a gozillion dollars !

1 hour ago, LiteraCola said:

what is the purpose of this amplifier, exactly?

The signal itself from the switch is low voltage/current not sure which. the signal operates the relays in the amplifier which switches the main supply to the door locks and window motors

  • 2 weeks later...

Alright, so during my door speaker swap, I decided to try and tinker with this loose window switch. I removed the switch panel, popped off the window switch and a small piece of plastic fell out. I cleaned up all the grease with brake cleaner (on a cotton swab) and used some of the DevCon Plastic Welder stuff I “borrowed” from work a hundred years ago. I let it dry over night and tried to slide the pin back in. It was pretty tight so I tried to sand down some of the glue. That didn’t work, so I sanded the plastic pin just a smidge. Lubed it up and slid it in (giggity). All is well; my switch isn’t loose anymore, and I don’t hear the constant “clunk clunk” inside the door while driving. Two birds with one stone? 
 

My drivers door lock switch still doesn’t work, but that’ll move down the priority list since there’s a nifty manual lock bottom less than a foot away ??‍♂️

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • BRUH, one of the biggest mistakes of my life..... and i've had plenty ;[)
    • @Murray_Calavera iam just considering options 🙂 of course it is very expensive so that why i ask here 🙂  @joshuaho96 I looked at that GCG hybrid(i remember looking at it few weeks before) So this is "that" hybrid where i send them my turbo and they upgrade the inside to Garrett stuff and then they send it back. It cost around 1200-1300 USD which is FAR cheaper than the HKS and it is what iam looking for(i just do not have experience like this...to send something off to "upgrade" ) @tylink720 that is like 150 USD turbo no? 😄 I dont think i have the "ease on my mind" with this kind of turbo. I just put over 7000k USD to "LINK" up my engine...dont want to blow it up with cheap turbo 😄     EDIT: https://www.cj-motor.com/gcg-turbo-charger-for-nissan-rb20det-rb25det-high?srsltid=AfmBOooVeOZ6CZ6r1AIv5m-KPaa6BvudIPJTY8LW78khkd-gQlsaCht9 I looked at this and it seems ok? It is that CGC hybrid and it costs around 1250 USD (with back shipping). Do any of you have experience with this hybrid on NEO turbo? I quickly look thru the forum/web and it seems very good.
    • Echo the awesome sentiment 👍 Definitely a car worth saving. Looking forward to seeing updates as well. 
    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
×
×
  • Create New...