Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

To preface, I have searched tirelessly, to no avail.

As far as I can tell, RB25 S1, S2 and NEO blocks are identical. The Neo heads are obviously very different. I have an S2 25 head and have found a good deal on a NEO block. I can't seem to find a definitive answer as to whether I can use the Neo block with the S2 head. I'm going fully forged and am looking for confirmation that the Neo block and crank will accept forged non-Neo 8.5:1 pistons and rods and not run into problems with the S2 head. As far as I can tell, this should have the same outcome as an S2 block with the same rods and pistons.

Preemptively, buying a Neo head is a last resort due to my location and freight costs.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481021-rb25-neo-block-compatibility/
Share on other sites

I'm building a forged Neo myself right now, and the different pistons allow for the different cylinder heads, and the relevant compression ratios. Got to run the correct piston to suit the head, if you want the package and known compression ratio to be simple, and easy to tune etc. Blocks should be same.

Do some research on oil gallery restrictors (in the deck of the block) as well, as their configuration depends on the head you're running as well (VCT or non-VCT). Platinum Racing Products has a good diagram on their Insta page explaining this...

I'm not a guru yet, so confirm what i've suggested elsewhere as well. But as far as i can tell, get those couple things right, and you should be sweet.

 

 

6 hours ago, throckmorton said:

To preface, I have searched tirelessly, to no avail.

 

You did not try very hard at all, over the years this has been discussed many times

If you search Neo block you find many pages, I guess reading through the titles was  too time consuming

Edited by Rusty Nuts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...