Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 ATTESA Pressure Line Replacement Help

SGT Grumbles
 Share

Recommended Posts

SGT Grumbles Apprentice

SGT Grumbles

Posted
Posted (edited)

I need to replace the high pressure line from the pump to the transfer case since it's leaking (PN 41706), car was bucking under WOT acceleration and removing the AWD fuse resolved it.

I'm wondering if anyone knows the best way to replace the line without spilling fluid everywhere? Is there a way to fully drain the ATTESA system or do I just unbolt the line and hope I have enough brake kleen to get it all after?

Also, regarding fluid. I've poked around on the forum but haven't seen a solid answer. I can't seem to get my hands on Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special, so I was thinking I would just go for Nissan Matic D since others have had good luck with that, unless someone knows a place that will ship PSFS to Michigan, US?

I included pictures of the leaky line and the diagram I pulled the PN from in case I got the part number wrong.

 

page_350_asterisk_002.png

IMG_20200830_111122.thumb.jpg.58fd7cccea15d64ee673cb0f45e32a60.jpgIMG_20200830_111136.thumb.jpg.3bf3c7fcb6fdd269c52c0b2b1f76c60c.jpgIMG_20200830_111146.thumb.jpg.0b6ac6a7db60ff911ca4911f9579318a.jpg

image.png

Edited by SGT Grumbles
wrong image
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

It's not exactly clear from the pics which line it is, so I can't confirm part#.  However, it is unusual for those hoses to leak (of course nothing is impossible). I'd undo and then nip up the banjo bolt at the each end of the hose, and also the flare fitting at the back of the transfer case. Then degrease everything and check again after some driving.

If there is a light leak there, it's not the cause of your 4wd problem, there is nothing major in those pics.

If you replace that line you will need to refill the boot reservoir and rebleed the system. You can use any  good auto trans fluid, I use Castrol Syntrans in the race car but I don't know if that's available where you are. You could use a syringe to pull fluid out of the boot before you undo the line if you want to minimise the fluid that runs through.

 

SGT Grumbles Apprentice

SGT Grumbles

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Looking at it again last night with the top diagram, I'm pretty sure that's the right PN. I'll try loosening and re-tightening the banjo's just to see, but it looks like it's coming directly from the rubber portion of the line. You're right though a clean should help pin-point it.

Last night I tried topping up the system with some Castrol Dexron VI ATF. The AWD ran better but still felt like it was surging/slipping. I checked the reservoir and the fluid level was the same as when I filled it.

Is the surging/slipping when the AWD engages a typical sign of a different problem? I thought I lucked out with a leaky line. I'm hoping it's not the pump since those appear to be rather pricey.

In the meantime is it safe to cruise the car with the fuse pulled or does that risk wrecking the front/center diffs?

SGT Grumbles Apprentice

SGT Grumbles

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'll take a look at the sensor tonight after work, see if I can see anything up with it. I know there is one guy with a GTR nearby, may see if he'll let me borrow his for a day.

BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

Sounds like your transfer case is stuffed if it is slipping. Your friction plates are probably worn. It is completely possible to tear the material away from the plates due to incorrect or poor fluid.

On 01/09/2020 at 7:35 AM, Duncan said:

You can use any  good auto trans fluid, I use Castrol Syntrans.

Castrol Syntrans is a gearbox oil and is the correct oil for the gearbox, not the transfer or Attesa. Transmax Z is the ATF that should be used inside the transfers. Attesa fluid can be anything ATF basically dex iii upwards as it is just a hydraulic actuation fluid after all.

Also regarding any new Attesa hoses they are mostly all discontinued from Nissan and is now only available part of the Nismo heritage lineup.

SGT Grumbles Apprentice

SGT Grumbles

Posted
  • Author
Posted
22 hours ago, TXSquirrel said:

Your issue may also lie in the sensory side and not mechanical side.  What's the condition of your G-sensor?  Can you find another one nearby to test?

Just checked, one of the previous owners swapped it for a digital one. Looks pretty new, so I'm guessing that's not the issue.

14 hours ago, BK said:

Sounds like your transfer case is stuffed if it is slipping. Your friction plates are probably worn. It is completely possible to tear the material away from the plates due to incorrect or poor fluid.

Castrol Syntrans is a gearbox oil and is the correct oil for the gearbox, not the transfer or Attesa. Transmax Z is the ATF that should be used inside the transfers. Attesa fluid can be anything ATF basically dex iii upwards as it is just a hydraulic actuation fluid after all.

Also regarding any new Attesa hoses they are mostly all discontinued from Nissan and is now only available part of the Nismo heritage lineup.

Man that's a bummer if that's the issue. I'll drain and replace the trans/transfer fluids and see if there are any plate bits in there. Based on how the car feels when AWD engages I wouldn't be shocked if the clutch pack is worn out. Figured it had more life since there is only about 96k km's on it (assuming no rollback).

Are there any transfer case rebuild kits out there? I wasn't able to find anything when searching. Luckily there is a place nearby that rebuilds R32 GTR transfer cases if there aren't decent kits.

I'll let y'all know how the new fluids work out...and start budgeting for a transfer case rebuild lol. Oh well good excuse to swap clutch/fly wheel and get a new down pipe.

IMG_20200902_095002.jpg

TXSquirrel Community Regular

TXSquirrel

Posted
Posted

Yeah digital G sensor should be maintenance free.  Previous owner just saved you $400.

Your issue is mechanical then.  I was thinking, however, if the transfer case was slipping, why would it buck the car?  Because the rear wheels are still pushing, just the power not transmitted to the front.  So I would say do a quick check on the front diff. also, just make sure there is enough fluid and also the right fluid.  

SGT Grumbles Apprentice

SGT Grumbles

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 9/2/2020 at 9:40 PM, GTSBoy said:

Yeah. Nah. There is no such thing as an R32 with only 96 kkms. They all had at least that much 15 years ago.

a man can dream...lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • funkymonkey
      Returning after a long time!

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      Por que no los dos? At least my euro brawler is reliable - unlike the JDMs I've had. Sheraaz you look familiar, did you ever come to an SAU VIC meet aaaaaages ago?
    • funkymonkey
      Phone photo thread

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      Drove to Cape Schanck to try to get a nice clear southern view over the ocean to see the lights a couple of days ago... instead got crappy cloud cover. Photo of a diorama of Hong Kong street scene. Taken on an iPhone 13 Pro Max.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Stock RB fuel pressure is near enough 43.5 psi, so the latency in that table at 31.6 will be close. You can see that 7 or 8 psi equates to about 0.4µs extra latency. So if you wanted to interpolate between the 31.6 and 39.9 psi values you could say you're going up about 2 psi out of those 8, so add about 0.1µs, which is barely worth talking about and is quite possibly wrong because ideally you would fix the latency while running at the appropriate conditions on the dyno, with a wideband sniffing its butt.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The pressure, is what you set the fuel pressure to. If you have the factory fuel reg, you'll need to find the factory spec. I don't know it off the top of my head, but someone else might.
    • MBS206
      Belt flex under throttle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For others, what GTSBoy states here should be paid attention. Why? Well lots of people play with different engines, and they LOVE to change things like remove AC, or steering pumps etc, and it lends to them needing to move the tensioner too. You want your tensioner, particularly those that are sprung or hydraulically tensioned, to be the first thing after the harmonic balancer, or technically the "last" pulley in the chain. By saying last pulley, I mean look at the direction the crank spins when the engine is running, follow the belt from where the crank is pulling the belt FROM, and keep following that until you're between the last pulley/accessory on the belt and about to reach the crank again, this is the spot where you put the tensioner. This is the area that will always end up with slack. This is worked out exactly the same way for chains too, as the physics is the same for them. The crank pulley is where all the force to drag the belt around comes from. You will never ever get rid of the slack that appears, especially under load. The tensioners job is to keep the belt loose enough when stationary that there shouldn't be out of sync movement in slow movement, and then be tight enough when running, that the belt can't jump off any gear and get damaged. Too tight, bad things happen, too loose, bad things happen. Have a tensioner (mainly sprung/hydraulic one) in the wrong spot, it can't actually do anything about keeping the tension.
×
×
  • Create New...