Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I’m replacing a few maintenance items and I noticed the cams are both off by 4 teeth. The car will turn on and run for like 30 seconds before shutting off if I don’t give it gas. 
 

i thought the issue might be the tune but now I’m not sure. Could there be damage to the valves?

55AC7947-29AC-4036-909A-79C70FFA37B7.jpeg

B3984533-0736-4C67-B2FA-9A0D45556C21.jpeg

It depends on the direction they are off if it may cause damage. A comp test with the cam timing wrong isn't very useful, a leak down test would be better.

I would just set cams to correct position while crossing fingers and try starting it again. No real need to waste time testing when you could just fix it and see

 

  • Like 2
43 minutes ago, Joey J said:

Working on fixing it now. Balancer is off and mark on crank lines up with tdc marker. I will update once done. Probably won’t finish untill tomorrow night. 

That’s ok I can wait 👍

  • Haha 1

Balancer looks good. When I pulled it off the crank gear mark lined up with the timing mark on the block.
 

Im assuming below is why the cams are both off by 4 teeth. Not sure. Between those 2 teeth was that crud had pretty much turned into a rock. 
 

I don’t know how the car was dyno’d at the shop and no one noticed the timing was off. Is it possible it was set like that on purpose? I don’t see why that would be done. 

A51DECD7-AC36-4373-A75A-2722DA8DD310.jpeg

2 hours ago, Joey J said:

I don’t know how the car was dyno’d at all................FYP

A51DECD7-AC36-4373-A75A-2722DA8DD310.jpeg

I honestly can't understand how the car could even do dyno runs........surely it would have had trouble revving out?

And what is the crud made up of?  road gravel? metal? old belt?

2 hours ago, Joey J said:

Balancer looks good. When I pulled it off the crank gear mark lined up with the timing mark on the block.
 

Im assuming below is why the cams are both off by 4 teeth. Not sure. Between those 2 teeth was that crud had pretty much turned into a rock. 
 

I don’t know how the car was dyno’d at the shop and no one noticed the timing was off. Is it possible it was set like that on purpose? I don’t see why that would be done. 

A51DECD7-AC36-4373-A75A-2722DA8DD310.jpeg

Hi Joey, I'd definitely be pulling the crank gear off and giving it a good clean (especially between the teeth so the belt can get good engagement) as well as cleaning up the general area down there. 

I can't comment in this case because I don't know what has been done to the car in regards to its history. But I do know my timing has been adjusted using Tomei adjustable timing gears, as my head has been decked a couple of times as well as the block has been decked. 

Unfortunately we couldn't accurately make up for the loss material with a bigger head gasket, so we had to degree the engine after the rebuild to ensure tdc was still correct as per the marks on the rear timing cover (they weren't), so the timing gears were used to take up this slack. 

Could be the same in this case, but I'd really be asking your tuner as they may have had a valid reason for doing this. 

3 minutes ago, Blakeo said:

Hi Joey, I'd definitely be pulling the crank gear off and giving it a good clean (especially between the teeth so the belt can get good engagement) as well as cleaning up the general area down there. 

I can't comment in this case because I don't know what has been done to the car in regards to its history. But I do know my timing has been adjusted using Tomei adjustable timing gears, as my head has been decked a couple of times as well as the block has been decked. 

Unfortunately we couldn't accurately make up for the loss material with a bigger head gasket, so we had to degree the engine after the rebuild to ensure tdc was still correct as per the marks on the rear timing cover (they weren't), so the timing gears were used to take up this slack. 

Could be the same in this case, but I'd really be asking your tuner as they may have had a valid reason for doing this. 

Nah man, adjustments for facing head and block are a few degrees, one whole tooth is 16 from memory. One whole tooth is way too much

28 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Nah man, adjustments for facing head and block are a few degrees, one whole tooth is 16 from memory. One whole tooth is way too much

Ok, I dare say that's not the issue then my bad. 

I'd say OP is extremely lucky if it hasn't done any damage. 

Also Ben do you still have a RB or have you gone to the dark side? 

 

20 hours ago, tridentt150v said:

I honestly can't understand how the car could even do dyno runs........surely it would have had trouble revving out?

And what is the crud made up of?  road gravel? metal? old belt?

They had sent me a vid when it was getting dyno’d. Sounded fine.
 

The crud was dirt and gravel. No metal. Old belt actually looked good. No teeth missing. Didn’t appear to be old at all. 

19 hours ago, NZ-GTT said:

Exhaust valves could be bent but as mentioned a leak down test will reveal any damage. 

I hope that’s not the case. I don’t want to have to deal with pulling the engine. I don’t have space to do all that. I’d have to ship it to a shop. I really want to avoid that. 

 

I got everything back on today but I ran out of time. I’ll check all the bolts next week end and refill coolant, check for leaks and give her a crank. I had replaced the water pump and thermostat since I was there. The gasket maker says it needs 24 hours to cure.

I’ll report back next week. 
 

Thank you all for the responses. Much appreciated! I feel I’d be lost without this forum. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...