Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 7 months later...

Late post but im putting together another rb for the drag season and have came across these pulsar turbos you guys maybe interested in, I have buddies that are beating the piss out of them on there jz's, they seem to hold up just fine and are 1/3 of a price of precisions. im currently on a 6466 but looking to make 900whp. im going to try the pulsar 7170 not even a 1000 quid!! good bang for buck

On 05/01/2023 at 1:54 AM, GTSBoy said:

I think the consensus is that the Pulsar turbos are good examples of cheap Chinese turbos, but that they are still cheap Chinese turbos, in that the tolerances/clearances etc are not....great.

Are there any good examples of this in terms of media we can see? 

I've seen a couple of "just happen to be Garrett dealers/sponsored by Garrett dealer" people make these claims but so far have been involved in a pretty solid amount of Pulsar turbo based builds without seeing this issue.  The only issues I have seen have been regarding needing to make sure things are done up properly, ie - not assuming vbands are done up, or turbo speed sensor plug screwed in properly etc.   Have heard of 3rd party folks who are doing mix-and-match sells of Pulsars selling them with the wrong housing, ie GT35 turbine housing with GT30 turbine but that's not a build quality thing and could just as easily happen with the same people selling legit Garrett bits.

 

Edited by Lithium
1 hour ago, Lithium said:

Are there any good examples of this in terms of media we can see? 

Have heard of 3rd party folks who are doing mix-and-match sells of Pulsars selling them with the wrong housing, ie GT35 turbine housing with GT30 turbine but that's not a build quality thing and could just as easily happen with the same people selling legit Garrett bits.

And, to be fair, that could be the sole source of any noise I have heard.

4 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

And, to be fair, that could be the sole source of any noise I have heard.

So far I've not seen any reports from people I'd call "neutral" buuuuut I'm obviously open to finding out if they are something I should be more apprehensive about sticking up for.  I have nothing to gain personally, not a dealer or anything - like yourself just like trying to give people "what I know" to try and help them be best equipped to make the right calls... the whole "are you ok with buying a copycat" is a different ethical decision best made by the buyer.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...