Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 GTT Idle / Deceleration Problem

GoHashiriya
 Share

Recommended Posts

MoMnDadGTR Mentor

MoMnDadGTR

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, GoHashiriya said:

That's alright. I have got a copy already, albeit only the R34 one which presumably doesnt cover my 32 trans. Thanks for the reminder though as it did slip my mind.  

good on yeah mate. glad to help when i can hows things going with the car.

GoHashiriya Community Regular

GoHashiriya

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

good on yeah mate. glad to help when i can hows things going with the car.

Honestly, It's gonna take me about a month to crack on with this job. I've gotta move house next month which will hold me back. I'm going to try and do coilovers, hicas lock and arms next weekend, plus get the wheels mounted and aligned. It's the wrong order I know, but I don't wanna have the car in an immovable state before moving.

I appreciate everyone's input so far and will be sure to update this when I make some progress.

MoMnDadGTR Mentor

MoMnDadGTR

Posted
Posted

yeah forsure bro dont rush it. i rushed my build spent way to much creates stress and takes the fun out of it. go at your own pace with fixing it and just enjoy. more to life than cars as much as we do love them.

  • Like 1
GoHashiriya Community Regular

GoHashiriya

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Over the weekend I had a glance under the car and found the neutral switch - located just forward of the shifter - isn't plugged into anything.

I've tried searching but have found limited results indicating the colours or location of the wires I need to plug this into. If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.

The best description of the wiring I've found is this:

"When you (have) disconnected the loom from the gearbox, you should have disconnected 4 plugs. The green and black plugs on the PNP switch, the plug for the speedometer which is grey with an orange and a black wire, and a second speedometer plug, which is brown. I’ll start with the PNP plugs.

You only need the black plug. On the black plug, there are 3 wires that you need. The red wire for the reverse switch, this also needs a earth wire that you can splice from the earth (black wire) that goes into the speedometer sensor. The other two wires that you need are the brown with yellow stripe and green with white stripe. These are for the neutral switch."

The thread is regarding an R34 auto-manual swap. Do these wire colours apply across the board for the 34?

Apologies for the poor quality pic, it was relatively tight under the car. 

508A362B-C048-4E85-8BFE-2CA611D8A026.jpg.58156fcd0cdb67f410d1cd41c57d65ac.jpg

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

There's another switch on the side of the gearbag, looks like the reverse switch. THAT is the neutral switch. What you have pointed to as the neutral switch is just the loom connector.

But more importantly, that gearbag doesn't look like an RB25DET box. Looks like RB20DET. That lettering cast in in behind the reverse switch says RP71, right?

Compare with below image of RB20 box

https://www.jdmenginesimport.com/images/EnginePics/Full/339_4_IMG_4243.jpg

  • Like 1
GoHashiriya Community Regular

GoHashiriya

Posted
  • Author
Posted
50 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

There's another switch on the side of the gearbag, looks like the reverse switch. THAT is the neutral switch. What you have pointed to as the neutral switch is just the loom connector.

But more importantly, that gearbag doesn't look like an RB25DET box. Looks like RB20DET. That lettering cast in in behind the reverse switch says RP71, right?

Compare with below image of RB20 box

 

You're correct, it's an RB20 box - a questionable choice for a swap into an ER34. I know, I know - a budget for a suitable transmission is in the works.

The switch in question for me is the one just forward of the shifter:image.png.b09fd2dd3b4fcaffcedea62251ab707b.png 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...