Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, so from what I've read in old posts I'm pretty confident I blew one or both of the stock turbo exhaust wheels last night. Car was on boost at WOT, then I shifted (around 6500/7000) heard a loud noise car juddered and rattled and no more boost. What I wasn't able to find searching and has me worried were some of the other symptoms I had. I don't remember if I let off right when it happened or not, but shortly after the pop I pulled up to a red light. It made some horrible rattles noises, sounded almost like my front pipe came off, idled horribly going from too low to too high, but then rattles went away and it settled down. I didn't notice any smoke out the back but to be honest wasn't looking back there. After the engine settled down there was still a spiny rattle noise that's particularly noticeable when near the exhaust tip, idles normally, and drives normally off boost. I limped it the 2 miles home and it drove ok but couldn't build up boost. Oil pressure, oil temp, and water temp all remained normal; even when the engine was acting up. Haven't started it up since.

For reference I have a decat pipe, tomei equal length downpipes, and a cat back muffler. Rest of the car is stock. I noticed the day of that the car was making a bit more boost than usual but I never turned it up myself and had been running stock boost until then.

Planning to take off the down pipe, endo-scope up the rear of the turbos, compression test, and endo-scope through the sparkplugs for any noticeable damage. If I don't find anything doing that I'll start checking intake/intercooler piping and get the stuff for a leak-down test. Again, pretty sure this is a blown stock turbo exhaust wheel, but I'm wondering if anyone has any other ideas for what to check and if my symptoms indicate something catastrophic. Should I start budgeting for a new/rebuilt short block?

Also side question, assuming the engine isn't boned, can I run -5's on stock boost with a stock ECU/fuel system? Not sure I have the funds to do everything at once and was hoping to get it back on the road this summer.

It sure sounds like a lost turbo wheel if it idles and drives OK off boost but won't make boost. As you don't have a cat you are unlikely to ever find the missing wheel. 

Having an intercooler pipe blow off or split is another potential cause and can sound terrible, but the car almost always won't start or idle in this case.  Best to carefully check each large intake pipe before you start pulling turbos off, as well as obvious failures like pipes not being connected there can be harder to identify issues like splits under hose clamps for example.

Least likely but still possible is you've had an engine problem at the same time, eg broken ring lands. A compression test will tell you if there is a problem but again this is unlikely if it starts and idles OK.

If it is a turbo wheel coming off I have heard of engine damaging resulting but have never seen it personally. Apparently ceramic from the turbo wheel have more velocity than exhaust gases and can travel through the open exhaust valve into a cylinder, scoring it badly enough to require on oversize piston rebuild.

Thanks Duncan. Have you heard of a lost wheel causing a rough idle and sputtering for 30 seconds to a minute after it happens? That's what has me worried I may be one of the unlucky few that had ceramic backflow into the cylinder. I've also heard of the ceramic damaging the internals but wasn't sure how common it was. I have a borescope so hopefully that should be good enough to see any damage that might have been caused.

And that's a good idea, I'll check all the intercooler pipes closely. It's all original and almost 30 years old so definitely a possibility. What I could see without diving to much into it last night looked like everything was connected still at least.

Then I would go order a twin scroll single turbo manifold, a twin scroll turbo, and two gates. Don't replace shitty twins with another pair of shitty twins.

I know Americans love their "twin turbos" but seen any fast reliable Supra with twin turbos? They all go sex spec single.

When i lost my turbo wheels at WOT i just lost boost but never had splutters etc.  Although i was on the highway so didnt slow down much.

 

I did eventually have an engine failure but I did a rain launch for a laugh so i think it was just a stock pump failure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...