Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I’m upgrading intercooler and fuel hanger/pump, have 1000id injectors e85-9 Garrett’s making 320awkw currently.Will upgrades to cam gears and type B poncams assist much in power gains on my Gtr32.

Im going to tidy the engine bay by powder coating the cam covers and figuring out weather to upgrade at this time. Advice would be great.

Edited by Matty George
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482238-cam-gears-and-poncams-next/
Share on other sites

Hi again Matty. Just do the cam gears and keep the stock cams with your -9 turbos. If you cam it you will absolutely make more power, but your car will be slower everywhere except the drag strip.

Your call

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Don't get Tomei cams if you're wanting new cams, get some decent Kelford cams, an intake cam gear (advance its mum) and install new valve springs (avoid Tomei junk), retainers and valve stem seals.

28 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Don't get Tomei cams if you're wanting new cams, get some decent Kelford cams, an intake cam gear (advance its mum) and install new valve springs (avoid Tomei junk), retainers and valve stem seals.

Yeah but with -9s car will still be slower for a streeter, even with the most baby drop in L182-A Kelford cams.

You're right though with the Tomei valve springs, how shit are they ? Caused me nothing but problems. The Tomei type B is, how did you put it, "made from a child's faeces"  😂 That still cracks me up.

That's correct, longer duration will move the torque/power to the RHS, however will also introduce more torque/power. This is where the intake cam gear comes into play, advancing that intake as much as possible (within reason) will pull that power curve back and the net result is nearly similar low RPM driveability but now with a wide power band :)

A bit of a balancing act.

Tomei cams & Tomei valve springs should not exist lol

  • Like 1

Yeah I've played with this on my -9 33 with this with Tomei cams. Ended up going back to stock cams with I think about inlet advance 4 and exhaust cam retarded 2 degrees.

I think -9s would actually respond to a 10mm+ high lift cam with less than 260 duration, but most people are not going to do such big head modifications with such small turbos, or twins at all.

You are completely right though, but cams just not worth it to increase 10 - 15w at most top end.

when you do end up picking a set of cam gears i would go with the kelford ones. i think there the only cam gears with the 5 mini helicoils and seem very high quality compared to tomei hks etc. cheers

 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...