Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I’m upgrading intercooler and fuel hanger/pump, have 1000id injectors e85-9 Garrett’s making 320awkw currently.Will upgrades to cam gears and type B poncams assist much in power gains on my Gtr32.

Im going to tidy the engine bay by powder coating the cam covers and figuring out weather to upgrade at this time. Advice would be great.

Edited by Matty George
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482238-cam-gears-and-poncams-next/
Share on other sites

Hi again Matty. Just do the cam gears and keep the stock cams with your -9 turbos. If you cam it you will absolutely make more power, but your car will be slower everywhere except the drag strip.

Your call

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Don't get Tomei cams if you're wanting new cams, get some decent Kelford cams, an intake cam gear (advance its mum) and install new valve springs (avoid Tomei junk), retainers and valve stem seals.

28 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Don't get Tomei cams if you're wanting new cams, get some decent Kelford cams, an intake cam gear (advance its mum) and install new valve springs (avoid Tomei junk), retainers and valve stem seals.

Yeah but with -9s car will still be slower for a streeter, even with the most baby drop in L182-A Kelford cams.

You're right though with the Tomei valve springs, how shit are they ? Caused me nothing but problems. The Tomei type B is, how did you put it, "made from a child's faeces"  😂 That still cracks me up.

That's correct, longer duration will move the torque/power to the RHS, however will also introduce more torque/power. This is where the intake cam gear comes into play, advancing that intake as much as possible (within reason) will pull that power curve back and the net result is nearly similar low RPM driveability but now with a wide power band :)

A bit of a balancing act.

Tomei cams & Tomei valve springs should not exist lol

  • Like 1

Yeah I've played with this on my -9 33 with this with Tomei cams. Ended up going back to stock cams with I think about inlet advance 4 and exhaust cam retarded 2 degrees.

I think -9s would actually respond to a 10mm+ high lift cam with less than 260 duration, but most people are not going to do such big head modifications with such small turbos, or twins at all.

You are completely right though, but cams just not worth it to increase 10 - 15w at most top end.

when you do end up picking a set of cam gears i would go with the kelford ones. i think there the only cam gears with the 5 mini helicoils and seem very high quality compared to tomei hks etc. cheers

 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...