Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all bare with me on this one.  I have a project I want to have a nudge at but I don’t want to go into to much detail as I’m 99% it hasn’t been done yet. My question is as silly as it sounds is can you change what side the exhaust and intake port are on? eg. change it from exhaust on the right side of the head to left hand side and the same for the intake. 
 

one would assume a custom cam would be needed to get the exhaust and intake lobes in the right place 
 

im asking on here as I don’t have a head or the experience to work it out and collective knowledge always seems to work

 

 Cheers

lucas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482718-rb25det-heads/
Share on other sites

I would say that that is a hard no. The shapes and sizes of the intake and exhaust ports are quite different, and you don't necessarily have the room to hog out the (small) exhaust ports to approach the size of the intake ports because the water jackets are quite close to the exhaust port walls.

Then you would have to look at whether it would be possible to fit intake sized valves where the little exhaust valves come from (which would require removing a lot of metal and you'd probably face a similar problem with water jacketing there) and then you'd have to close up the inlet valve holes to take smaller valves.

Just use a 1JZ.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482718-rb25det-heads/#findComment-7954666
Share on other sites

On 8/9/2021 at 6:14 PM, Dasmbo said:

You can do what i did send your head to Lewis engines and get it machined to suit your purpose it cost me about $4500.00 and it makes one hell of a difference

You swapped the sides of the inlet and exhaust manifolds?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482718-rb25det-heads/#findComment-7954682
Share on other sites

On 8/9/2021 at 6:14 PM, Dasmbo said:

You can do what i did send your head to Lewis engines and get it machined to suit your purpose it cost me about $4500.00 and it makes one hell of a difference

Yeah, nah sweetheart. We'd be talking about $20+k of work here and it still probably wouldn't work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482718-rb25det-heads/#findComment-7954685
Share on other sites

On 8/9/2021 at 8:33 PM, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, nah sweetheart. We'd be talking about $20+k of work here and it still probably wouldn't work.

I'll do it for $19,999 and bore it out to a 4L at the same time. 

Heres one i did earlier this week

Product Overview: Ford Barra 4.0L Terminated Engine Harness - Haltech

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482718-rb25det-heads/#findComment-7954688
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...