Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hallo guys. I have a Nissan Skyline V35 250GT. I hav seen the car has a fuel tank split into two, possibly the main tank and the reserve tank. In the main tank is the pump. My problem is fuel is getting finished in the main tank whilst there will be fuel in the reserve tank.Are they not supposed to decrease in level at the same time? How is fuel added to the main tank from the reserve? I see there is a fuel pipe from the bottom of the reserve tank to the pump filter.How does it work and what could be the problem.

20210906_164714.thumb.jpg.8cc5410453c2c9d991a1630c9268b556.jpg 20210905_174539.thumb.jpg.252b0fb8be4badb4d5c80057a114c4d9.jpg

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482805-v35-fuel-system/
Share on other sites

it is one big tank, not a main and reserve, but due to the shape of the vehicle it is high in the centre, there is what is called a 'jet pump', which is responsible for moving fuel from the side without the pump to the side with the pump.

see this page for a description.

https://www.sard.co.jp/after_eng/products/engine/jp_killer/jp_killer.html

This isn't quite the same as the V35, I believe the 250GT is the same as the 350GT and has the pressure regulator built into the fuel pump assy, not external like the image in the link.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482805-v35-fuel-system/#findComment-7955651
Share on other sites

Yuh, they are referred to as a "saddle tank" because they go up and over the horse in the middle. As @sonicii above says, there is usually a venturi type pump that runs from the return flow or similar to draw fuel from the dead side to the live side (live side being where the main pump draws from).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482805-v35-fuel-system/#findComment-7955671
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for the late response guys but would like to thank you for your responses.V35_Paul --- Yes I am running out of fuel yet there will be fuel on the other side of the tank. The 250GT has a single line from the pump to the engine and another line from the other side tank (dead side)onto the pressure regulator as shown in pics below. Any idea as to why we have 2 level sensors one on the dead side and the other on the live side attached to the pump.

20210906_164701.thumb.jpg.6ccff885b317e894cebf7335338efd9c.jpg  20210905_174936.thumb.jpg.d0714c2b33c34d446c64c95ace333217.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482805-v35-fuel-system/#findComment-7955947
Share on other sites

That orange component you can see in your pictures is the jet pump, it is responsible for transferring fuel from the 'dead' side of the tank if the fuel level in that side is higher.  If this isn't happening then I would be looking for issues with the hose or the jet pump.

Keep in mind the 'jet pump' isn't an active pump, it is venturi device that depends on the fuel leaving the pressure regulator and returning to the tank to draw fuel from the other side, so there could possibly be issues with the pressure regulator or the venturi device.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482805-v35-fuel-system/#findComment-7955978
Share on other sites

Also just make sure the Fuel sensor is clean.

VERY common that they give a false reading to your fuel gage. E.g if you Fill "to the top" car up and it shows just under the "Full" line then its wrong.

Just use a cotton tip to rub the metal contact points on the sensor attached to the pump

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482805-v35-fuel-system/#findComment-7955996
Share on other sites

^^ yep, that is true too.  Except mine of course, it likes to randomly read high, cleaned sensors and connectors, checked for damage/debris on the level sensor, still happens through.  Almost as if one sensor occasionally decides to read 'full' when it isn't.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482805-v35-fuel-system/#findComment-7955999
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Guys does anyone have any idea as to why the Nissan skyline 250 GT has 2 fuel sender units (fuel sensors).Whats  the purpose of the fuel sensor in dead side of the saddle tank.What's the part played by this sensor since there is another sensor in the live side of the tank where the pump is situated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482805-v35-fuel-system/#findComment-7958633
Share on other sites

Guys let me share with you my observations on the operation of the 2 fuel sender units on the Nissan skyline 250GT.I pulled out the 2 sender units out of the tank and switched the ignition key to ON position.I was moving the floats on both sensors simulating different tank levels while observing the behaviour of the fuel gauge.For my experiment the dead side tank was 2 and the live tank was 1.For the sensor positions Low meant empty, Mid was half tank and High was full tank.

I made the following observations

  1. If both tanks 1 & 2 sender units are set on Low, the fuel gauge will indicate empty
  2. If sensor in tank 2 is set to Low and  as you move your sensor in tank 1 from Low to High the fuel gauge moves from empty to maximum half tank.
  3. If sensor in tank 2 is in Mid position to High and as you move your sensor in tank 1 from Low to High the fuel gauge moves from empty to full tank.

So in conclusion there is some form of synchronization between the 2 sensors.The fuel gauge reading is a result of the synchronized positions of the dead side and live side fuel sender units.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482805-v35-fuel-system/#findComment-7958785
Share on other sites

the sender are in series, there is only 1 fuel gauge circuit that passes through both senders, for the gauge to read full both senders need to have minimal resistance, which is what they have at/near the full position.

If you unplug either sender, you break the circuit and the gauge will read empty no matter how full the tank is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482805-v35-fuel-system/#findComment-7958803
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Possibly, there are 2 level senders as there is 2 halves to the tank (saddle tank), even though they are connected internally, one side can be higher than the other, so to give a genuine reading, there is a sender on both sides.

As for why it is reading high, I wish I could work out that on mine (or my son's car now), it intermittently reads high, I have removed, cleaned and tested both level senders and they seem to be fine, checked the wiring as much as I can, but still can't work out why it sometimes reads high.

Usually when you have a dirty sender it reads low.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482805-v35-fuel-system/#findComment-7984510
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...