Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I'm considering to upgrade (from stock suspension) to an active suspension system.

Car will be street/track days but I would like the best setup.

However it's quite hard to find review on such aftermarket product. So I'm wondering if it's worth it or if it's just a gadget ?

The only brand which has made a model for a R34 gtr is tein (mono + active EDFC pro)

I noticed also some other brand such as mcr-ltd, dscsport, Aragosta or tractivesuspension

Any advice ?

Best regards

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483153-r34-gtr-active-suspension/
Share on other sites

They're not really "active suspension" though, are they? Not in the computer-controlled-takes-input-from-a-bunch-of-G-steering-angle-rideheight-speed-etc-sensors-and-tries-to-control-wheel-rate-and-position-to-keep-the-body-flat/steady sense that proper active suspension is, right? You're just talking about electrically/remote adjustable damping rate, right?

On 12/31/2021 at 5:35 PM, GTSBoy said:

They're not really "active suspension" though, are they? Not in the computer-controlled-takes-input-from-a-bunch-of-G-steering-angle-rideheight-speed-etc-sensors-and-tries-to-control-wheel-rate-and-position-to-keep-the-body-flat/steady sense that proper active suspension is, right? You're just talking about electrically/remote adjustable damping rate, right?

https://www.tein.com/products/edfc_active_pro.html

The Tein product he's talking about is actually trying to be true active suspension. MCR's coilovers are just a custom spec relabeled Tein coilover. DSC Sport only makes a system for the R35, not the older RB GTRs, same is true of the Aragosta Type-SA active coilovers. Tractive Suspension seems to make something for the RB26 GTRs, but for a "performance coilover" they don't seem to care about basic information like spring rate which isn't all that promising.

Personally I'm of the opinion that if you're going to do this, you need to have it all properly integrated instead of whatever weird nonsense is going on with most of these systems. I really doubt that these systems are well-integrated compared to how an OEM would do it.

thanks for your inputs 

well I just mention some brands maybe I forgot one which made some product for the r34 gtr ?

so it looks like only tein made a "serious" product? But I'm quite concerned due to lack of reviews 

edfc is from 2013 ! and no new product since then so I guess it's not popular which means it's not a good option ?

so I think I'm better to go with a more classic system

I had these Tein coilovers and controller fitted to my car a few years it was novel made it easy to ajust the shock dampeners syuted for lazy people but i had to disconect the motors and wiring as someone smashed my passenger window and helped themselves to the controller and a couple of other things so now i just ajust the shock dampening manually company wanted nearly $600.00 for new controller so that wasnt going to happen a second time but the dampeners work great

 

thanks for your feedback ! 

Well my point was for the active part of the edfc.

Did you have the edfc active pro ? so that the dampers are adjust in "real time" ? (with g and speed sensor and so on )

did you make some track days with them ?

Best regards 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...