Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm currently replacing a timing belt on my 91 BNR32 and I noticed the crank pulley/harmonic balancer has a chip on the outer wall. I'm gonna go ahead and replace it but as I got to looking I noticed that I can get some OEM R32 ones from Japan for about 50 bucks if I'm willing to clean the rust off all the way up to 600 dollars for new ATIs and some other "performance" ones. My question to you guys is is there really any reason to go for one of those? Especially if this is just a 400hp street build? I can't seem to find any actual reviews on these things

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483513-rb26-crank-pullies/
Share on other sites

On 02/04/2022 at 11:37 AM, GTSBoy said:

Hmm. Let's see. R32 right? So, 30+ years old. Critical to engine health should the (30 year old) rubber let go? Yup. Seems like a legit way to save money.

Just buy a new one.

Absolutely, posted just as I was writing this. I'd never use a second hand oem damper, especially one that is 25+ years old. You can't know the integrity of it as you can't see inside it. What happens is the bonding material goes super hard then they just eventually destroy themselves and fly apart - this has happened to me about 10 years ago with my oem one and it destroyed everything, like I mean cracked the block and cracked the crank in multiple areas everything.

 

On 4/1/2022 at 10:07 PM, GTSBoy said:

Hmm. Let's see. R32 right? So, 30+ years old. Critical to engine health should the (30 year old) rubber let go? Yup. Seems like a legit way to save money.

Just buy a new one.

I didn't realize the OEM ones had rubber in them, knowing that yea I'll definitely just get a new one then. The only question from there then is what's up with the 12T vs 36-2T?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...