Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Revhead - Just giving my opinion. Exactly, they are cheap and built to a budget, meaning they are a good car to start in. They are newer and in better condition that a lot of older cars - if they are maintained. If not they go down hill rapidly! They don't have all the mod cons but the later ones - 1998 onwards aren't too bad.

I agree with you and am very thankful I wasn't in any accidents because they are shithouse when it comes to safety. With the right mods they don't go too bad either. Mine struggled but kept up with Commodore 6's.

Truthfully, my Excel handled better than my Skyline and corners I could take at 130km/h, I have to slow down to about 100km/h in Skyline. This wouldn't be the case with a R32 or R33 GTST as these cars handle choice. In my opinion, my Excel was better through the twisties, but the Skyline is way more quick in straight lines (well duh!) Maybe it's becuase my Skyline is an '82 model and stuff wears etc. etc. Earlier Skylines and such are also excellent first cars as they are bullet proof. I'm gunna shut up now before I put my foot in it again! :Paranoid:

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

boj - lol no worries :) Yes, maintenance plays a very large part in how 'good' a car is.

From what I hear DR30s are great fun with some decent aftermarket suspension (hint, hint)... and we can't have a Skyline out-handled by an Excel now can we? :(

Haha yes that is quite true! Also its got to do with that fact the Excel was a FWD and I could push it hard and couldn't make any errors (apart from understeer!). Also it was fully insured compared to Skyline which only has 3rd party, so I baby the Skyline, much like 9/10 other import owners!

i would have to say the reliability, maintenence etc. really have to do with the person you bought it off, although i agree on the fact the hyundai is lump of terd of wheels the reliability of the car regardless is a plastic engined nightmare. but i must agree with rascov the probe is a goodlooking ford and may have a big future is u choose buy it.

good luck with the probe

probes.jpg

Guest hoon69

honestly im blue blooded and i wouldnt even consider the probe yes they look alright but cost wise your better off with a skyline in the long run cause the amount of money you save in insurance you make up for in spare parts etc...

honestly better off with a XR falcon 94 for 5-7k or a small import with a 2ltr turbo engine maybe?

but dont go with the probe..

Originially the probe was going to be a cheap run around for 3 years until Im off my P's basically. The car is cheap, insurance is cheap, car too weak to attract police and looks nice. I doubt driving the 1997 probe for 3 years will cost me more than owning an import...I could be wrong. Ill keep on looking around for the cars that you suggested.

thankyou all

- Patrick

i'm interested in this discussion because i agree with rekin is saying about starting small and local and building upto a decient jap..........

R31 sounds like a good choice.........lancer?

i'm not sure about the earlier korean cars but one of the car mag's over here was giving a rundown of some massive consumer experiment that was conducted in 20 cars to test value and reliablity...........a hundi came 3rd!!! it didnt break down once over the 2 year trial. Audi's etc broke down more.........

they were the new models though.

i reckon start on naturally asperated engines too...........no cop worries and less chance of crashing the car.

  • 2 weeks later...

r31!

lancers are ok but the galant is better, bit xpencive though

what do u think of the Corida GSR?

exa's arent that bad, but not exactly a "10 sec car" (stupid fast furious.....ricers)

targa top, cheap, lite....uhh....ca16...(thats more of a downsyde)....id get one if i didnt like imports.

I say go something newer if you can, I mean cordia's GSR's?? are they like those old cars? when were they out, like 85 or something? That's almost a quarter of a century ago, and it looks it! These cars will have a zillion kilometers on them.

r31, well yeah, same, not exactly spring chickens. Exa, again, I mean c'mon it's not 1988!

Honestly though, for 10k there's not too much that rocks one's world, the little eunos 30x is okay and the probe at least looks like it was styled in this millenium, (some people here don't care about styling but ya know with sports cars or coupe styling is important, it's part of the package).

I don't particularly like the probe, it's a bit junky, and yeah, it could be a hassle but look at these two pics and make up your own mind:

The Probe

Ford%20Probe%20Combat%20Chin.jpg

The Cordia

mycordia1.jpg

'nuff said. You aint' going to be smoking no GT-R's in this car so you might as well have something that looks like it's not from the jurassic period.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...