Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Revhead - Just giving my opinion. Exactly, they are cheap and built to a budget, meaning they are a good car to start in. They are newer and in better condition that a lot of older cars - if they are maintained. If not they go down hill rapidly! They don't have all the mod cons but the later ones - 1998 onwards aren't too bad.

I agree with you and am very thankful I wasn't in any accidents because they are shithouse when it comes to safety. With the right mods they don't go too bad either. Mine struggled but kept up with Commodore 6's.

Truthfully, my Excel handled better than my Skyline and corners I could take at 130km/h, I have to slow down to about 100km/h in Skyline. This wouldn't be the case with a R32 or R33 GTST as these cars handle choice. In my opinion, my Excel was better through the twisties, but the Skyline is way more quick in straight lines (well duh!) Maybe it's becuase my Skyline is an '82 model and stuff wears etc. etc. Earlier Skylines and such are also excellent first cars as they are bullet proof. I'm gunna shut up now before I put my foot in it again! :Paranoid:

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

boj - lol no worries :) Yes, maintenance plays a very large part in how 'good' a car is.

From what I hear DR30s are great fun with some decent aftermarket suspension (hint, hint)... and we can't have a Skyline out-handled by an Excel now can we? :(

Haha yes that is quite true! Also its got to do with that fact the Excel was a FWD and I could push it hard and couldn't make any errors (apart from understeer!). Also it was fully insured compared to Skyline which only has 3rd party, so I baby the Skyline, much like 9/10 other import owners!

i would have to say the reliability, maintenence etc. really have to do with the person you bought it off, although i agree on the fact the hyundai is lump of terd of wheels the reliability of the car regardless is a plastic engined nightmare. but i must agree with rascov the probe is a goodlooking ford and may have a big future is u choose buy it.

good luck with the probe

probes.jpg

Guest hoon69

honestly im blue blooded and i wouldnt even consider the probe yes they look alright but cost wise your better off with a skyline in the long run cause the amount of money you save in insurance you make up for in spare parts etc...

honestly better off with a XR falcon 94 for 5-7k or a small import with a 2ltr turbo engine maybe?

but dont go with the probe..

Originially the probe was going to be a cheap run around for 3 years until Im off my P's basically. The car is cheap, insurance is cheap, car too weak to attract police and looks nice. I doubt driving the 1997 probe for 3 years will cost me more than owning an import...I could be wrong. Ill keep on looking around for the cars that you suggested.

thankyou all

- Patrick

i'm interested in this discussion because i agree with rekin is saying about starting small and local and building upto a decient jap..........

R31 sounds like a good choice.........lancer?

i'm not sure about the earlier korean cars but one of the car mag's over here was giving a rundown of some massive consumer experiment that was conducted in 20 cars to test value and reliablity...........a hundi came 3rd!!! it didnt break down once over the 2 year trial. Audi's etc broke down more.........

they were the new models though.

i reckon start on naturally asperated engines too...........no cop worries and less chance of crashing the car.

  • 2 weeks later...

r31!

lancers are ok but the galant is better, bit xpencive though

what do u think of the Corida GSR?

exa's arent that bad, but not exactly a "10 sec car" (stupid fast furious.....ricers)

targa top, cheap, lite....uhh....ca16...(thats more of a downsyde)....id get one if i didnt like imports.

I say go something newer if you can, I mean cordia's GSR's?? are they like those old cars? when were they out, like 85 or something? That's almost a quarter of a century ago, and it looks it! These cars will have a zillion kilometers on them.

r31, well yeah, same, not exactly spring chickens. Exa, again, I mean c'mon it's not 1988!

Honestly though, for 10k there's not too much that rocks one's world, the little eunos 30x is okay and the probe at least looks like it was styled in this millenium, (some people here don't care about styling but ya know with sports cars or coupe styling is important, it's part of the package).

I don't particularly like the probe, it's a bit junky, and yeah, it could be a hassle but look at these two pics and make up your own mind:

The Probe

Ford%20Probe%20Combat%20Chin.jpg

The Cordia

mycordia1.jpg

'nuff said. You aint' going to be smoking no GT-R's in this car so you might as well have something that looks like it's not from the jurassic period.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...