Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is well documented that the 2008-2012 model year Nissan 370z and Infiniti G37 cars have experienced the gallery gasket issue. This is where the paper gallery gaskets in the VQ37VHR disintegrate causing a drop in engine oil pressure and potential engine failure. You generally get no warning, mileage varies from 40k-150k miles when it happens and when it throws a few codes its considered too late. From what I read, Nissan revised the gasket to use metal for the 2013+ engines.

I've scoured the internet looking for Skyline V36 370GT owners having this issue but have not found any. Considering the Infiniti G37 was also made in Japan, I'd expect to see the same issue in the Skyline V36.

I'm trying to ascertain:
- How many V36 Skyline coupe, sedan and crossover owners experienced this issue and at what milage did it occur?
- Does the VQ25HR in the 2006-2012 Skyline V36 250GT Sedan have the same issue?

  • Thanks 1

Plenty of owners of Japanese 370z cars have experienced it so its baffling why the issue isn't been reported for V36 Skylines. The VQ35HR engine is affected too 

This is a good link that explains common issues with the VQ37VHR. "Oil Galley" (I believe its correctly called Oil Gallery) is at the top of the list.

Its hard to determine how big an issue it is. On one side, the thinking is that because there is no recall for the problem from Nissan and the sheer number of units sold it is likely to be a rare occurrence. On the other, Infiniti G37 and 370z owners have experienced the issue often enough that they consider it inevitable.

From www.my370z.com 
oil_gallery.thumb.jpeg.59e5fc5e79d2a1cb9241f29288b00931.jpeg

There has been a few unofficial surveys conducted in Fb groups in the US. I saw one with over 900 replies resulting in about 15% of people having gallery gasket issues. This was in a G35/G37 page so Z’s weren’t really included. I’ve heard of 2 confirmed gasket failures in Australia on V36’s.

It can be catastrophic but I don’t think it’s as common as people are lead to believe. 

  • Like 1

What would be the expected cost to do a preemptive replacement of the Oil Gallery Gasket (in Aus of course)? I would expect there to be a range, from where the mechanic has underestimated the extent of the work, to the higher price, where the mechanic has a higher hourly rate and they have added in an extra buffer in case its harder than they expect.

Also, are the replacement gasket of the same material? or are they now synthetic/metal etc etc. I looked on ebay, and the one found was black, but didn't say what its made of; the above photo looks kinda light brown and thin, but that after a failure.

Edited by Vee37
On 07/05/2022 at 12:22 AM, Vee37 said:

its getting late, but I came across the following thread with lots of info, including words from people that its happened to. Prices are $USD

too late to remember to paste the link in?

The amount of labour should be along the same lines as replacing a timing chain or water pump - 8 to 12 hours. I was quoted $3.5k by the local dealership to replace the timing chain in my V35 (including parts and labour).
Here is the parts list from the myg37 forum, USD pricing

All OEM parts unless otherwise specified
Tensioner: 13070-EY00A - $70.49
Timing Chain:13028-ZS70A - $91.88
Water Pump: B1010-JK20A - $70.60
Gasket Maker: 999MP-1217HP- $15
Coolant: 999MP-L25500P - $15
Serpentine Belt: 11720-EY00A - $35
Timing Cover Kit w. OEM Gallery Gaskets and 9 bolts (CZP) -129.74
https://conceptzperformance.com/niss...kt_p_32295.php

Z1motorsports make a metal gasket which might be a better option

To monitor the potential issue, I'm not keen to install an additional oil pressure gauge. The stock oil pressure sensor turns on the dash warning light at 5psi which is a late warning. Can this sensor be replaced so it can turn on the warning light at 10psi considering the minimum oil pressure at hot idle should be at least 14psi?

On 5/9/2022 at 8:45 PM, o2bfit said:

...snip...

To monitor the potential issue, I'm not keen to install an additional oil pressure gauge. The stock oil pressure sensor turns on the dash warning light at 5psi which is a late warning. Can this sensor be replaced so it can turn on the warning light at 10psi considering the minimum oil pressure at hot idle should be at least 14psi?

Huh? Why would you NOT be keen to install an oil pressure guage?

To be honest, I simply prefer the installed from factory look.

I've been following motorvatediy mini-dash display and bluetooth server which looks promising and keen to see the final product. If it can output via the Aux to the Nav screen, even better.

The oil pressure reading is usually taken at hot idle and 2k rpms; get the sensor to turn on the oil pressure warning light when the oil pressure is less than 14 psi. It should be enough warning before damage occurs? I'm not sure whether the ECU uses the sensor for anything else.

  • Like 1
On 5/10/2022 at 5:00 PM, o2bfit said:

I've been following motorvatediy mini-dash display and bluetooth server which looks promising and keen to see the final product. If it can output via the Aux to the Nav screen, even better.

I'm hoping they can get the mini-dash install to look factory. If not, an option hide it in the centre console box and use the aux would be great (feature request)

On 5/10/2022 at 3:00 PM, o2bfit said:

To be honest, I simply prefer the installed from factory look.

I've been following motorvatediy mini-dash display and bluetooth server which looks promising and keen to see the final product. If it can output via the Aux to the Nav screen, even better.

The oil pressure reading is usually taken at hot idle and 2k rpms; get the sensor to turn on the oil pressure warning light when the oil pressure is less than 14 psi. It should be enough warning before damage occurs? I'm not sure whether the ECU uses the sensor for anything else.

I am with you on not having a glaring out of context round guage bolted to the side of the interior/dash. I am thinking yes to the pressure sensor on my next oil & filter change, but will make some effort to find something a little less intrusive than the round guages you get at supercheap auto.

Around 25-30 years ago, I owned a Mitsubiush Starion Turbo, with a modded boost limit with stock fuel inj. So, I added a 10 segment square LED guage that read and displayed the O2 sensor. It was soooooo small, as it was made up of 10 of those tiny rectangular LED's (2x5mm) all stuck to the side of each other. So it was possibly just over 5mm high by 20mm wide. Very easy to locate somewhere unobtrusive. It was VERY simply to fabricate, with only a few extra parts on top of the LEDs and IC. I even just used black electrical tape to hold it together instead of a plastic case. I had the first three LED's as RED, the next 4 as Orange and the last two as green. I am hoping someone, somewhere prefabs the LED and the single IC as a single prefab unit. With something like.

10segled.thumb.jpg.0c1b65b0bd05b995213681c18cc45580.jpg

The actual chip is really cheap (<$9) and very common and old, and even sold at JayCar https://www.jaycar.com.au/lm3914-linear-led-bar-dot-driver-ic/p/ZL3914 with the instructions / circuit diagram in the downloads of that page. 

I am guessing the Oil pressure sensors simply send out a voltage (My old O2 was 0-1.0V). From memory, I knocked it up in a single afternoon, after collecting all the parts. I think dicksmith in those days. I dont think I have  the current drive to do it all myself again.

  • Like 1

I installed one of these knock off gauges kits: https://www.justraceparts.com.au/10in1-automotive-digital-oled-multi-gauge-display

Slotted in pretty nicely to the console. 

I had a look into OBD sollutions and tried mucking around with getting it to display on an aftermarket screen but it was too much hassle.

You can adjust the audible alarm to whatever pressure/temp you want for peice of mind. Small enough to ignore when im driving to work but big enough to glance down at on track. 

 

JRP gauge.jpg

On 5/11/2022 at 1:46 PM, mooij said:

...snip...

I had a look into OBD sollutions and tried mucking around with getting it to display on an aftermarket screen but it was too much hassle.

...snip...

I have my phone already mounted, and dislaying the ODB readings, unfortunately, oil pressure is not available. As of course you would know, the guage you have requires the extra sensors to drive the results. The only extra sensor I think I wish for is the oil pressure one. Did you manage to find the oil pressure using ODB? You seem to imply you only gave up regarding displaying it on the car's screen implying it was available.

The below is where my phone sits. ie I dont need or want it to consume the screen. Its always connected for music, at the very least, but I also drive with Nav even when I know the way. Accident/Police/pot-holes(really handy with sports suspension and ultra low profile tyres)/traffic/cars on side of road/construction etc etc reports are always on hand. I use the AUX input for audio, but I would assume the video AUX would also work, but my Pixel phone has been consciously broken by google to force people to use their screen sharing method instead of an AUX out. And I think the always available type like your screen would be best for the oil pressure.

centerconsole.jpg.285a02e97fd005d5e87931

NB: Thats not actually my car, mine does  not have seat warmers. Which would be a possible location to install some LED's for oil pressure.

 

So you would hacve oil pressure. Where is the sensor located? The thread I linked above talks about options and their effects on readings.

Edited by Vee37

The Aussie Shed is an absolute legend, Motorvate DIY too 😍

 

I have an in-line oil temp sensor on my line to the oil cooler, and my oil pressure sensor is on the return line.
The location obviously has some impact on the reading, however if you're familiar with the reading when the motor is (presumably) healthy, you can just use that that to benchmark off. 

I used the in-line sensors due to convenience and so I could leave the OEM stuff alone. From memory I still needed an aftermarket Oil pressure sensor paired with OBD for the other stats.


Yeah the reason I stopped persuing the Android auto/OBD/display path was due to the JDM display protocals made it very dificult to replicate on an aftermarket LCD screen. Could be different with a non-nav screen or the G37 screens but I was well and truely over the project to look into it any further.

Here's a link to what I was trying to acheive but eventually gave up on.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/audio-video-and-electronics/296526-how-i-replaced-upgraded-the-center-display-with-high-res-andriod-auto.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...