Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not a lot of information in that question. Can't see how any manifold on the car affects ABS, even a high mount exhaust manifold is miles away from it.

Anyway, ABS is a rectangular box at the rear right of the engine bay with a series of brake lines in and out. If you don't know what it looks like, a pic of your engine bay would help. I've never heard of a Stagea without ABS

On 5/13/2022 at 10:53 AM, Duncan said:

Not a lot of information in that question. Can't see how any manifold on the car affects ABS, even a high mount exhaust manifold is miles away from it.

Anyway, ABS is a rectangular box at the rear right of the engine bay with a series of brake lines in and out. If you don't know what it looks like, a pic of your engine bay would help. I've never heard of a Stagea without ABS

Don’t got the car atm, can take pix when I grab. Maybe r32/r33 have fouling ABS location? 
 

I added a photo of the manifold heading if that helps.

07C8A830-F5B9-49D4-A87E-BF399939860F.jpeg

This is the high mount exhaust manifold in my Stagea. The ABS is behind the heatshielding in the top right.stagea_birthday3.jpg

I have absolutely no idea how any high mount manifold could ever foul the ABS, but regardless choosing the ABS version would be both most likely correct , and least likely to have any fouling issue. If you can't get a pic of your engine bay and in doubt, ask them if the ABS version would be a problem in a non-ABS car (and why)

On 5/13/2022 at 11:51 AM, Duncan said:

This is the high mount exhaust manifold in my Stagea. The ABS is behind the heatshielding in the top right.stagea_birthday3.jpg

I have absolutely no idea how any high mount manifold could ever foul the ABS, but regardless choosing the ABS version would be both most likely correct , and least likely to have any fouling issue. If you can't get a pic of your engine bay and in doubt, ask them if the ABS version would be a problem in a non-ABS car (and why)

here’s a pic 
2B758C7E-2917-45FA-96A1-389B08C84060.thumb.jpeg.45a14ba183c8887ad44ac45ef353fe48.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...