Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found this Endless Braking kit for R33GTR but doesn’t show as fitting for a GTST. 
Wondering if there is a difference in mounting and what I would need to modify to fit, if anything. 
And if anybody has done similar 6pot or relative size brakes on gtst and what was needed to make that happen. 
 

bonus: If you also know the offset needed to run these with BBS LM’s(18x10 rear and 18x8 front) 

CECABC81-6CF8-4295-86B2-10B0BD45D82E.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483718-r33-gtst-big-brake-upgrade/
Share on other sites

If it bolts up to a R33 GT-R, it will bolt up to a GTS-t.

You'll need to trim the lip on the rear dust shields all round, some people bend it back. I found it's much easier to flap disc it off, then hit it with some black paint.

On 6/2/2022 at 9:15 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

If it bolts up to a R33 GT-R, it will bolt up to a GTS-t.

You'll need to trim the lip on the rear dust shields all round, some people bend it back. I found it's much easier to flap disc it off, then hit it with some black paint.

Okay great! That’s what I thought! 
 

I saw that the ‘03 350Z brembo are the same size as the GTR brembos also, difference being you just have to drill from 12M to 14M for the brackets but I think that’s a pretty easy mod considering and would be worth it for this as well if need be. 
 

do you happen to know the dimensions of GTR brembo, cause if the endless are within a few mm of those I won’t have to worry quite so hard about the wheel offsets being an issue. 

On 03/06/2022 at 12:23 PM, Lawlessdarkness said:

Okay great! That’s what I thought! 
 

I saw that the ‘03 350Z brembo are the same size as the GTR brembos also, difference being you just have to drill from 12M to 14M for the brackets but I think that’s a pretty easy mod considering and would be worth it for this as well if need be. 
 

do you happen to know the dimensions of GTR brembo, cause if the endless are within a few mm of those I won’t have to worry quite so hard about the wheel offsets being an issue. 

Yes they are, however you need to also run the 350Z disc (albeit the same thickness and diameter) as the hat offset is different to the GT-R rotor.

And in terms of caliper dimensions, no idea :D 

I know that stock R33 GT-R wheels fit over a GTS-t with 350Z Brembo calipers.

On 6/2/2022 at 9:27 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Yes they are, however you need to also run the 350Z disc (albeit the same thickness and diameter) as the hat offset is different to the GT-R rotor.

And in terms of caliper dimensions, no idea :D 

I know that stock R33 GT-R wheels fit over a GTS-t with 350Z Brembo calipers.

Awesome thank you! 

On 6/3/2022 at 3:54 AM, niZmO_Man said:

You need to know/figure out the caliper clearance of those BBS wheels, as in the space behind the spokes. Offset doesn't really matter. That screenshot looks like it's from Nengun heh.

Ahhh right right (I’m obviously not a wheel guy)… so yeah I wasn’t thinking about that… so like the curvature of the actual spoked area on the hub is what I need to clear, and the distance from the rear side of the wheel hub, to the hub’s mounting plate area that goes against the brake rotor is going to be the distance needed to clear. Am I correct in that? 
and as far as distance from inner wheel diameter, I’ve seen 18” wheels with endless brakes so that circumference should clear just fine depending on the rotor size to accompany. 
 

okay so let’s say the back of the bbs to the rotor is shallow by 5mm or something, could I just get a hub-centric spacer of like 8-10mm to make up the difference and it will work?  
 

sorry for the noob-ness ^_^

my first skyline, and my Supra and other cars in the past the wheel guy just gave me what I needed and I didn’t have any special brake situations or anything to worry about 

On 6/4/2022 at 6:55 AM, Lawlessdarkness said:

okay so let’s say the back of the bbs to the rotor is shallow by 5mm or something, could I just get a hub-centric spacer of like 8-10mm to make up the difference and it will work?

Yes. If there was a 5mm interference you would need to space thee wheel out by that 5mm plus as many extra mm as you feel comfortable. I'd not really want to run <5mm clearance, because even though all that stuff looks stiff, there is some deflection. If you only leave a 2mm gap, you might learn how much deflection is possible.

Not sure about this kit but I know other brake kits have had a template that you were able to print out to check it against your wheels to see if you have the correct clearance 

18” wheels will clear a lot of brakes but offset and spoke design also play a huge part 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...