Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

I got my car in the workshop getting a new bigger turbo, 3'' dump pipe, fake cat, plus injectors etc.

Im now trying to make a decision on what to do with my exhaust. Its currently 2.5 inch except with the resonator removed and a big xforce cannon. It drones bad on the highway so wanna change it plus also let it flow better.

Looking at either getting a custom 3" mild steel exhaust with a hotdog resonator installed and same xforce muffler or getting a new Kakimoto catback from japan. Its actually cheaper to get the kakimoto than all the custom fabrication. 

The ones im looking at are the:
Kakimoto Racing R exhaust muffler. 

Kakimoto Racing Hyper Full Mega N1+ Rev exhaust muffler.

Had anyone got these and how are they? 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483832-exhaust-recommendations/
Share on other sites

Any Jap 3" exhaust that is JASMA compliant will have a 2.5" restrictor in it somewhere that f**ks them anyway.

Hotdogs are shit. If you want the exhaust to sound reasonable, put a decent sized centre-offset 3" muffler in the middle and the cannon on the rear. Plus, consider a cat. Decat is stupid.

  • Like 5
On 7/8/2022 at 3:24 PM, GTSBoy said:

Any Jap 3" exhaust that is JASMA compliant will have a 2.5" restrictor in it somewhere that f**ks them anyway.

Hotdogs are shit. If you want the exhaust to sound reasonable, put a decent sized centre-offset 3" muffler in the middle and the cannon on the rear. Plus, consider a cat. Decat is stupid.

^^^^this

Also a custom exhaust will sit a lot higher and nicer than a off shelf jap item. 
The Jap one will be cheaper then add freight, fitting and cost to go get the custom exhaust in the end.

  • Like 1

HKS Super turbo is a GREAT exhaust.

its 85mm all the way excluding the cat flange. but if you cut that off and fit a 3.5" flange then you're in business.

I'm making 490awkw with one internally gated. would be much more with a screamer.

Was very cost effective for a stainless cat back exhaust. i was being quoted much more for a locally made mild steel one. Yen is quite good at the moment too.

worth hitting up Jesse Streeter for a price to compare to local options anyway.

Edited by burn4005

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...