Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’ve ordered all the good fruits for my stock rb25 neo stagea (turbo, manifold & intake) will get haltech and fuel management done by tuners, but there’s one thing I don’t know anything about which is the stock AFM. My goal is atleast 300 KW atws.

Basically do I need to upgrade my AFM to like a Z32 or can I just get a MAF delete. Unless the haltech ecu controls the airflow data on its own? 🤷‍♂️ lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483847-do-i-need-a-afm-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Haltech can run an AFM, can't it? It just happens to have an onboard MAP sensor in the ECU it can use instead.

I'm not sure where the standard AFM runs out of resolution, maybe around 250kw? If you are using the standard intake just leave it there, plugged in or not if you are using MAP.

 

An AFM is better than a MAP sensor at lower boost loads as it deals with temperature and altitude differences better, but a MAP can be simpler when you are making a custom intake or using big boost levels where the AFM runs out of resolution.

  • Like 2
On 7/12/2022 at 5:57 AM, SLIXK said:

I’ve ordered all the good fruits for my stock rb25 neo stagea (turbo, manifold & intake) will get haltech and fuel management done by tuners, but there’s one thing I don’t know anything about which is the stock AFM. My goal is atleast 300 KW atws.

Basically do I need to upgrade my AFM to like a Z32 or can I just get a MAF delete. Unless the haltech ecu controls the airflow data on its own? 🤷‍♂️ lol

For a single throttle body there's no real need for a MAF. Haltech Elite supports both. If you want to keep the MAF in place to help you tune though that can help quite a lot with part throttle setup. At steady state in a load cell you can empirically derive volumetric efficiency with a MAF. GM's ECUs can use this data to help with transient throttle too.

  • Like 1
On 7/13/2022 at 7:56 AM, Duncan said:

Haltech can run an AFM, can't it? It just happens to have an onboard MAP sensor in the ECU it can use instead.

I'm not sure where the standard AFM runs out of resolution, maybe around 250kw? If you are using the standard intake just leave it there, plugged in or not if you are using MAP.

 

An AFM is better than a MAP sensor at lower boost loads as it deals with temperature and altitude differences better, but a MAP can be simpler when you are making a custom intake or using big boost levels where the AFM runs out of resolution.

 

On 7/13/2022 at 8:12 AM, joshuaho96 said:

For a single throttle body there's no real need for a MAF. Haltech Elite supports both. If you want to keep the MAF in place to help you tune though that can help quite a lot with part throttle setup. At steady state in a load cell you can empirically derive volumetric efficiency with a MAF. GM's ECUs can use this data to help with transient throttle too.

I have been wanting to use an AFM/MAF with a Haltech to see what can be achieved as tuning supercharged Gen 4 LS based stuff makes the drivability and economy pretty good using AFM and Map based VE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
×
×
  • Create New...