Jump to content
SAU Community

S1 C34 Which Braided Front Brake Lines for Z32 Conversion

S1_C34

By S1_C34,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

S1_C34 Apprentice

S1_C34

Posted
Posted

Hello,

I've done some researching on this site that has been helpful so far.

I understand that Z32 / R32 front brakes are a direct bolt on to S1 Stagea. There's an orifice of sorts you need to remove.

Quote

I found that they fit perfectly on my S1, just had to remove a little orifice from the fluid inlet and I was able to use my standard brake lines with banjo bolt,

Quote

stock stagea brake lines bolt into the fittings, if you remove the flare fitting from the caliper, but are a bit to short and the lines are pulled too tight once fitted, so get a set of new custom length lines or braided lines.

So an orifice on the calipers themselves. I have reproduction Z32 calipers already in storage.

Honestly I have no problems just keeping the stock front brake lines and removing the orifice and throwing on Z32 calipers / rotors / pads. Cheap, cheap upgrade.

But if I can find some braided lines for less than the cost of the calipers, I would be interested. And if I get the right braided lines I wouldn't need to remove the orifice from the calipers right?

nissan-462110v002-1567861769531-big.jpg

S1 C34 25X brake line diagram. Front brake lines highlighted.

S13/14/15 Silvia > 300zx Adapter Brake Lines - https://au.gktech.com/s14-s15-to-z32-skyline-conversion-braided-brake-lines

One of the reviews: 

Quote

Great, product also works from going from C34 Stagea RWD to Skyline brakes

So RWD C34 and AWD Stagea front brake lines are different according to that and those wouldn't work. Or maybe they would?

R33 GTS-T braided lines - https://us.gktech.com/r33-gts-t-braided-brake-lines

But those are almost as much as the calipers cost me so I'd probably just keep the stock ones.

Can someone enlighten me?

 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I can't answer the exact question, but.... custom braided lines are not hard to organise. I'd just front up with measurements of the two parts of the hose length (from body fitting to strut mount, from strut mount to caliper) and samples of the fittings needed at each end, and....wait 30 minutes.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I suspect that is my long ago voice quoted there. Anyway, the point was you either use a banjo bolt end on the line (which seals with a copper washer to the calliper), or a flare nut (which seals on a removable olive inside the caliper).

Ultimately I changed across to aftermarket 8 piston brakes and have done about a bazillion klm on them since. They were a R32 gtr kit that included braided lines, bolted straight on and off I went

S1_C34 Apprentice

S1_C34

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 7/21/2022 at 12:00 AM, GTSBoy said:

I can't answer the exact question, but.... custom braided lines are not hard to organise. I'd just front up with measurements of the two parts of the hose length (from body fitting to strut mount, from strut mount to caliper) and samples of the fittings needed at each end, and....wait 30 minutes.

You're not wrong, it would be easy enough. I'm just kinda lazy and was hoping for an off-the-shelf setup.

On 7/21/2022 at 4:21 AM, Duncan said:

I suspect that is my long ago voice quoted there. Anyway, the point was you either use a banjo bolt end on the line (which seals with a copper washer to the calliper), or a flare nut (which seals on a removable olive inside the caliper).

Ultimately I changed across to aftermarket 8 piston brakes and have done about a bazillion klm on them since. They were a R32 gtr kit that included braided lines, bolted straight on and off I went

It probably is! That last part is helpful. Thoughts on the other comment about the stock hoses being too short / not enough slack when mounting the larger calipers as the other poster mentioned? I've seen most people say it's just a bolt-on affair, and that's the only post I've seen saying there isn't enough slack in the hose when mounting the 4-pots.

Kinda just leaning towards using the oem lines to be honest, but I may give these a go: https://www.goodridge.co.uk/products/car-brake-kit-for-nissan-skyline-r32-2-6gt-r-1989-1994?variant=12842545348673

 

Edited by S1_C34
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I should say that the kit I fitted was for an R32, but had very generous line length (if anything a little too long, have to keep them out of the way). I didn't measure them compared to R32. standard lines, noting the standard lines have a fitting to bolt them to the knuckle.

If you can afford the risk of the car being off the road for a week, I'd try standard lines, as long as they are not taught at full droop on the suspension, I'd just use them...

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Stagea_Neo Experienced

Stagea_Neo

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm not sure if this helps or not.

I recently upgraded to R34 Vspec2 Brembo's on the S2 Stag.

I used this braided kit:

https://safebrake.biz/home/292-skyline-gt-r-r34-awd-26tt-brake-upgrade-safebrake-performance-hoses.html

Beyond this I got the R33gtr front brake hard lines, that go over axle hub just behind the dust plate and all lined up beautifully.  The braided lines were same length as the stock ones.

Needed to buy 2x longer bolts for one of the hard mount points for the braided hoses up the front.

Trim rear dust shields so could fit 322mm discs.

It's a pretty straight forward job.

 

ps. the r33gtr hard brake lines have the flare nut so should bolt straight into your callipers.

Edited by Stagea_Neo
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
S1_C34 Apprentice

S1_C34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I ended up buying these: https://www.chasebays.com/products/chase-bays-fenderwell-brake-lines-nissan-r32-r33?variant=41685542764713

 

$69 USD, couldn't beat it. I'm thinking it will be a direct fit but will report back. Ordered some other stuff from that company as well that was back ordered so it's taking a while to get here.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...
S1_C34 Apprentice

S1_C34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update: I ended up having to install the Z32 calipers with factory lines as the chase bays R33 ones wouldn't work. The Stagea is missing a bracket for one of the clips on the braided lines. So I had to remove the 'olives' on each caliper which was easy. Drill self tapper in slightly and yank out with hammer. Have to be a little aggressive pulling. But yeah, just reusing OEM lines for now, no issues. It was all bolt on, not even any heatshield trimming.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...