Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, I am new to this forum seeking for help. I own a R32 GTS-T 64k miles and my car keeps getting misfires whenever I drive for 10-15 minutes in a hot day well any day to be honest. I changed the coil pack loom, ignition coils, sparkplugs and still misfires.. but car does feel a lot better with the new parts I just listed. Car runs, and starts good on cold. Could it be my igniter? Fuel Injectors? Timing? O2 sensor? ECU? could be one of those things or possibly more 0_0 I really need some help because I really love my car. 4 months ago I got it compression tested all around 150 and one of them was 140 can't remember which cylinder it was. I changed fuel pump 4 months ago as well because old one decided to go sleep on me. Anywho...please help :(! Any answers would be appreciated! 

 

8BA96CD9-43BD-41AE-9DCF-3ED58BA58DA6.jpg

D2203FB8-B1A8-42E0-95C4-DE7C96CCD58A.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/
Share on other sites

1. Get a consult cable and scan for codes.
2. Leak down test to check if valves & rings are sealing.
 3. If no error codes, get wideband and check AFR/Lambda

That 5th plug looks to have oil on it so either rings or valve stem seal could be the issue


These cars are 30 years old and probably have not had all scheduled maintenance done and been flogged over their many owners.
From failing optical sensors in CAS to blocked fuel filters. So many issues with them these days hard to diagnose with out seeing car in person.
 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/#findComment-7969661
Share on other sites

On 9/1/2022 at 2:24 PM, TakeoSkyline said:

Could it be my igniter?

Absolutely.

There's also almost zero chance that that car has only done 64000 miles. 164000 more likely, 264000 quite probable. That is unless you have owned it since circa the year 2000. 30 years of heat soaking will definitely leave that ignitor not working the way it should. Hell.....they started dying 20 years ago on everyone else's cars.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/#findComment-7969663
Share on other sites

On 9/1/2022 at 12:11 AM, GTSBoy said:

Absolutely.

There's also almost zero chance that that car has only done 64000 miles. 164000 more likely, 264000 quite probable. That is unless you have owned it since circa the year 2000. 30 years of heat soaking will definitely leave that ignitor not working the way it should. Hell.....they started dying 20 years ago on everyone else's cars.

I meant to say 104,000 kilometers haha sorry but yeah thank you for the reply I will be ordering my igniter but did order a few things to replace because might as well right? hehe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/#findComment-7969665
Share on other sites

On 9/1/2022 at 12:01 AM, robbo_rb180 said:

1. Get a consult cable and scan for codes.
2. Leak down test to check if valves & rings are sealing.
 3. If no error codes, get wideband and check AFR/Lambda

That 5th plug looks to have oil on it so either rings or valve stem seal could be the issue


These cars are 30 years old and probably have not had all scheduled maintenance done and been flogged over their many owners.
From failing optical sensors in CAS to blocked fuel filters. So many issues with them these days hard to diagnose with out seeing car in person.
 

Thank you for the reply! I will be doing the 3 things you listed as soon as possible if my igniter and fuel injectors won't do!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/#findComment-7969666
Share on other sites

I forgot to mention my car has a valve cover leak so rubber gaskets might have been old and sucky now but it doesn't look too bad so not enough to leak in the ground but I did get my replacements already and will be doing them soon 😀

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/#findComment-7969667
Share on other sites

On 9/1/2022 at 3:58 PM, TakeoSkyline said:

104,000 kilometer

Being essentially the same as 64000 miles does not change my opinion of the mileage on that car. They were all wound back in Japan, then usually wound back again before sale in their destination country.

On 9/1/2022 at 3:58 PM, TakeoSkyline said:

I will be ordering my igniter but did order a few things to replace because might as well right?

Better off abandoning that old fashioned crap. Buy an R35 (or similar) pencil coil conversion kit. Rewire with a loom kit to get rid of the igniter. Nistune the ECU so you can tweak the dwell and boost off into the sunset.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/#findComment-7969668
Share on other sites

On 9/1/2022 at 1:03 AM, GTSBoy said:

Better off abandoning that old fashioned crap. Buy an R35 (or similar) pencil coil conversion kit. Rewire with a loom kit to get rid of the igniter. Nistune the ECU so you can tweak the dwell and boost off into the sunset.

Yeah for sure, I've watched someone do it on YouTube gonna be doing that this year. The igniter will just be for temporary so won't be using it for anytime soon when I get the r35 coil conversion kit on 😁 Thank you for the suggestion!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/#findComment-7969669
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...