Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, first time posting here.

I'm after new suspension for my R34 n a 1998 Skyline sedan.

After doing some investigation underneath a hoist I have determined that my rear suspension is using the eyelet configuration. 

When browsing for coilovers. They all seem to have rear fork style configuration.

I have seen some comments that the R33 GTST suspension will work on the R34 NA sedan suspension?

Is this correct 

PXL_20220917_054509508.jpg

Edited by RB25inside
Photos
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484059-r33-gtst-suspension-on-r34-na/
Share on other sites

Coupe and sedan are identical. They are identical cars mechanically (R34 coupe and R34 sedan) with the only exception being the exhaust.

R33 GTST brakes and suspension will fit on a R34 NA.

I do not know whether there's realistically any damping differences in some companies setup but I HEAVILY doubt there would be, if looking at something like a R33 GTST BC coilover and a R34 NA BC coilover, or a R34 GTT BC coilover for example.

Cheers for the message ☺️

BC Racing looks really good especially with the damper option. But I don't really have the money for them...

I know it's like half the price but have you heard of max speeding rods before?

https://au.maxpeedingrods.com/product/nissan-skyline-gtst-r33-24-way-adjustable-damper-coilover-shock-absorber-strut-suspension-kit.html

42 minutes ago, RB25inside said:

Cheers for the message ☺️

BC Racing looks really good especially with the damper option. But I don't really have the money for them...

I know it's like half the price but have you heard of max speeding rods before?

https://au.maxpeedingrods.com/product/nissan-skyline-gtst-r33-24-way-adjustable-damper-coilover-shock-absorber-strut-suspension-kit.html

Yep, they are bad. Theres a reason they are cheap and poor man pays 3 times.................
Better off getting a lowered spring and shock replacement or save a bit longer and get MCA or something that is actually valved decently for street use. 

  • Like 1

Yes. If buying (coilover) suspension these days, it is foolish to do anything other than buy MCA or Shockworks (Shockworx?) in Australia. Properly specc'd, quality controlled, locally dev'd & supported. A better decision than random D shift stuff out of Taiwan or China.

  • Like 2

What is your reason for getting a set of coilovers? 

If your reason was for sure 100%, "I just want to lower the car" and you don't care about, ride quality, performance on road, performance on track, etc. Yes, you could go with cheap China coilovers, they will indeed lower the car. 

If I was strapped for cash and wanted to lower my car, I would get custom king springs with the spring rate and drop that I want. Fit the springs yourself and keep saving up the $. Then I'd buy a set of good Koni shocks and take everything to a good suspension place that has a shock dyno. They can valve the Koni shocks to match the spring rates. When I was a young lad I did this exact process with my turbo swift, I found that custom king springs cost the exact same price as of the shelf stuff and getting the Koni's revalved was about $80 per shock. This might have been about 15 years ago now but surely it can't have gotten much more expensive then that. 

  • Like 1

Current suspension is shot (It is making gun shots noises rattata) I have isolated it to the front to shocks. The rear two are ok. The whole car is running stock suspension currently.

I just brought the car but it needs to be replaced asap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...