Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, 

I recently purchased an AC kit from Frenchy’s Performance Garage (FPG) that I am trying to wire up. Somebody at FPG was kind enough to send me a diagram of what it’s supposed to look like. I will attach it. Everything is pretty easy to understand, except for where I’m supposed to find the ECU pin 9 feed. I figured, from the diagram, that the wire was connected to the OEM drier pressure switch (which I removed) and that I could get a feed from there, but there are two wires and I am not entirely sure anymore. Pin 9 on the ECU is the AC Relay. This is a new kit released by FPG intended to be installed by professionals, but that’s not an option for me. 
A81AFBCE-7DF6-4B0C-AD43-3B7F4F4FE341.thumb.jpeg.5f484e28bea011210dc68aefaa542d8c.jpeg

Edited by BourneToLive
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484088-bnr32-ac-pin-9/
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, BourneToLive said:

Hello, 

I recently purchased an AC kit from Frenchy’s Performance Garage (FPG) that I am trying to wire up. Somebody at FPG was kind enough to send me a diagram of what it’s supposed to look like. I will attach it. Everything is pretty easy to understand, except for where I’m supposed to find the ECU pin 9 feed. I figured, from the diagram, that the wire was connected to the OEM drier pressure switch (which I removed) and that I could get a feed from there, but there are two wires and I am not entirely sure anymore. Pin 9 on the ECU is the AC Relay. This is a new kit released by FPG intended to be installed by professionals, but that’s not an option for me. 
A81AFBCE-7DF6-4B0C-AD43-3B7F4F4FE341.thumb.jpeg.5f484e28bea011210dc68aefaa542d8c.jpeg

One pin is 12V, the other pin is ground. Pin 9 on the ECU is going to be the ground side. When you turn the car on even if the engine isn't running it will send voltage to the pressure switch. Use a multimeter to measure the voltage of the pins to determine which side is positive and which side is negative if you don't know the wire colors. The negative side is pin 9 if that diagram is correct. I would have to check the factory service manual to be 100% sure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484088-bnr32-ac-pin-9/#findComment-7970696
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, BourneToLive said:

The two wires that ran to OEM drier pressure switch are Aqua/White and Green/Yellow. I’m not sure about the aqua one. I’ll attach a picture of the wires. 

959CDF2F-C4A9-416B-8053-DBE52B45FEFF.thumb.jpeg.3f97b4982c248a550549bd54b59d0d8f.jpeg

Did you try measuring the voltage on the pins to try and figure out the polarity? It's either that or you can measure the voltage of each pin relative to chassis ground. Once you know where the voltage drop occurs that will narrow things down significantly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484088-bnr32-ac-pin-9/#findComment-7970712
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

Did you try measuring the voltage on the pins to try and figure out the polarity? It's either that or you can measure the voltage of each pin relative to chassis ground. Once you know where the voltage drop occurs that will narrow things down significantly.

I just tried with a test light. Clamped to a good grounding point and start poking around in the connector. Nothing happened with the Aqua/White wire, and with the Green/Yellow wire, I heard a click around the relay box. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484088-bnr32-ac-pin-9/#findComment-7970716
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, BourneToLive said:

I just tried with a test light. Clamped to a good grounding point and start poking around in the connector. Nothing happened with the Aqua/White wire, and with the Green/Yellow wire, I heard a click around the relay box. 

Reasoning about it if the switch were actually closing you would have the AC relay click on in both instances, so presumably the green/yellow wire is the +12V side of the pressure switch while the aqua/white wire is the ground side. From your diagram the ground side is switched by the ECU pin 9 so my guess is the aqua/white wire is what you're looking for as a mediocre electrical engineer.

I would recommend going to harbor freight to get a cheap multimeter to verify what I'm saying still but if you can't be bothered maybe someone else will check my work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484088-bnr32-ac-pin-9/#findComment-7970717
Share on other sites

The test light is to automotive electrical diagnosis as tapping on the chest is to working out what is going on in the lungs of a patient. It was fine, 100 years ago, when that was all they had. Now, we have actual tools for this job.

Using a test light in this context requires actual thought.

I think I concur with Josh's opinion above. The wire that lead to the relay clicking on is the hot one. That's why the relay clicked on when you earthed it through the test light. You made enough current flow through it to pull it in. Therefore, obviously enough, the other side of the pressure switch will go to the ECU and provide the two steps required to make the AC come on. Those being sufficient charge pressure, and the ECU asking for it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484088-bnr32-ac-pin-9/#findComment-7970721
Share on other sites

I have a follow-up question. Based on the picture I added of the wires, which ones would you say is which? Would you say the solid blue w/stripped wires are for the pressure switch 12v IGN/Pin9 wires and the solid red w/ white and solid black w/white are for the relay and ground? If it seems obvious to you, I’m sorry; I just want to be sure.

7C086E39-0C50-4D77-B37F-E1C7C6AA63BC.thumb.jpeg.75ad085852fec4c43c9860a6e26d9729.jpeg

Edited by BourneToLive
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484088-bnr32-ac-pin-9/#findComment-7970921
Share on other sites

They really have not given you enough information to install this kit. Are there any tiny tiny numbers on the pressure switch to determine which is 1,2,3,4 that way?

Diagram shows pin 1-2 are a circuit and 3-4 are a circuit, so assuming the switch is normally closed (I think it is because the switch turns off when target pressure is reached) you can use your multimeter to identify which 2 pairs have continuity.

If it was factory wiring you would guess the red wires are 12v and white wires are earth but this is aftermarket so all assumptions are off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484088-bnr32-ac-pin-9/#findComment-7970929
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Duncan said:

They really have not given you enough information to install this kit. Are there any tiny tiny numbers on the pressure switch to determine which is 1,2,3,4 that way?

Diagram shows pin 1-2 are a circuit and 3-4 are a circuit, so assuming the switch is normally closed (I think it is because the switch turns off when target pressure is reached) you can use your multimeter to identify which 2 pairs have continuity.

If it was factory wiring you would guess the red wires are 12v and white wires are earth but this is aftermarket so all assumptions are off.

Yeah, there was not much information provided because the kit was intended to be installed by a professional. I don’t have that option in my area, so I’m on my own. 
 

The connector does have numbers on it. I labeled them appropriately based on the diagram I was given, but it didn’t make sense to me because of the colors of the wires that matched the numbers. I watched FPG’s install video on YouTube (didn’t cover wiring the kit) and noticed that their wires are terminated in a different order on the connector side, which is why I asked the question. I just want to be sure. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484088-bnr32-ac-pin-9/#findComment-7970959
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, BourneToLive said:

Yeah, there was not much information provided because the kit was intended to be installed by a professional. I don’t have that option in my area, so I’m on my own. 
 

The connector does have numbers on it. I labeled them appropriately based on the diagram I was given, but it didn’t make sense to me because of the colors of the wires that matched the numbers. I watched FPG’s install video on YouTube (didn’t cover wiring the kit) and noticed that their wires are terminated in a different order on the connector side, which is why I asked the question. I just want to be sure. 

Do you have the spec sheet for the switch they provided? Looks like there's some writing on the switch so you should be able to look up the part.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484088-bnr32-ac-pin-9/#findComment-7970965
Share on other sites

This is what I managed to come up with, so far. Worst case scenario, I have to depin and move around some pins at the pressure switch. I know everything else is right. I’m think about splicing both the pressure switch ground and fan ground together. That shouldn’t be an issue right?  Excuse the amateur wiring. 
FE32D0B0-741B-4CFC-B23A-9B3C494D63CC.thumb.jpeg.78d4e4a25bbcce7d53f74689d304f8c1.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484088-bnr32-ac-pin-9/#findComment-7971043
Share on other sites

honestly mate, have you given frenchy's a call? They have not provided you enough information and you risk blowing something expensive up if you get it wrong. No mechanic would have got this far without giving the supplier a rocket about wasted time and poor instructions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484088-bnr32-ac-pin-9/#findComment-7971045
Share on other sites

On 10/10/2022 at 6:12 PM, Duncan said:

honestly mate, have you given frenchy's a call? They have not provided you enough information and you risk blowing something expensive up if you get it wrong. No mechanic would have got this far without giving the supplier a rocket about wasted time and poor instructions

I have reached out by email for clarification, but they stopped responding the fourth email. I found this picture diagram on the trinity pressure switch and found it helpful. 
69669E29-5C97-4DAE-B506-8589AD6CB2AC.thumb.jpeg.cb1b68221ee82d328ebf4988a81c06d6.jpeg

This is what I got so far: 

Black/white= 12v IGN AC feed

Blue/red= Ground

Red/white= ECU AC pin 9

Blue/white= Relay

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484088-bnr32-ac-pin-9/#findComment-7971152
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...