Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I think I should be ok now, but that's not our of the question either depending on how serious I get on the track.

If I got an engine "built" again I would definitely get one, even for a street car

Pre-oiling bearings on start up on a big dollar engine seems like a smart idea IRT long term reliability, and I could easily justify it as "good insurance" also for when giving it the beans

For the old oil pumping RB I would definitely get one

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, darkoh69 said:

No I see relevance in this. It seems like your saying ‘oem very good, but thermos are very good also.’ & ‘In your experience falcon thermos are better’. 

No, LS1 only has thermo fans available 😛 So yes, OEM level thermos often do work well and very often outperform expensive other fans. My AU thermo fan kit was a grand total of $50 and closely follows the dimensions of a skyline radiator. I have heard mondeo fans are even better, but I never needed to go that far.

I used the clutch fan on my RB. Worked great even with no shroud.

I have an accusump on the LS and the simplicity of the design stuns me that I never knew about them when I had a RB. Or any f**kin engine. I do not know why some system like that is not standard on any track focused vehicle.

  • Like 1
14 hours ago, The Bogan said:

If I got an engine "built" again I would definitely get one, even for a street car

Pre-oiling bearings on start up on a big dollar engine seems like a smart idea IRT long term reliability, and I could easily justify it as "good insurance" also for when giving it the beans

For the old oil pumping RB I would definitely get one

Let's see, if Wakefield Park opens up again and I start to race as often as I did then the Accusump will definitely been something I look into and install.

I think there's enough space to nest it behind the bumper support :) 

At present, I have pretty aggressive engine protection setup with the new motor (learnt my lesson last time LOL).

  • Like 1

I can confirm you can mount the big one at the back of the reo. Check my build thread for photos etc etc. As it stands I am too weak to corner hard enough for it to actually get used, but hey its nice it's there 😛

  • Like 2
20 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I can confirm you can mount the big one at the back of the reo. Check my build thread for photos etc etc. As it stands I am too weak to corner hard enough for it to actually get used, but hey its nice it's there 😛

I recall seeing it in your photos, hence where I got the inspiration from 😎

23 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

I can confirm you can mount the big one at the back of the reo. Check my build thread for photos etc etc. As it stands I am too weak to corner hard enough for it to actually get used, but hey its nice it's there 😛

Do you use to prime your oil system before start up?

  • Like 1
9 hours ago, The Bogan said:

Do you use to prime your oil system before start up?

Nope. I read too much about the solenoid failing to do anything other than a manual lever to open/close it. You CAN get a cord even to pull in the cockpit to manually operate the lever for this, but I've not done that (yet?)

I wager given LS's run 600,000kms or so, their cold start bearing wear must be of very minor concern given all the other concerns out there with cars.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...