Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Colour me confused. How can you remove the dampener to see what the idle pressure is? I feel that you are confusing the wording or the physical location of these devices. The dampeners are upstream (and perhaps on) the rail. The reg is at the outlet of the rail and is the very last physical device in the fuel system other than the return line to the tank.

Do us a favour. Locate the real, actual pressure reg. Remove the vac line from it and tell us the idling fuel pressure then.

  • Like 1
13 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Colour me confused. How can you remove the dampener to see what the idle pressure is? I feel that you are confusing the wording or the physical location of these devices. The dampeners are upstream (and perhaps on) the rail. The reg is at the outlet of the rail and is the very last physical device in the fuel system other than the return line to the tank.

Do us a favour. Locate the real, actual pressure reg. Remove the vac line from it and tell us the idling fuel pressure then.

Dampener is after the fuel pressure regulator on the rb26, removing the vac line changes the idling by like 0.05 bar or something like that 

If it satisfies you I also ran the car with the hose right off the fuel pressure regulator as stated and nothing changed

On 12/10/2022 at 6:54 PM, damnonrs said:

Dampener is after the fuel pressure regulator on the rb26, removing the vac line changes the idling by like 0.05 bar or something like that 

If it satisfies you I also ran the car with the hose right off the fuel pressure regulator as stated and nothing changed

The dampener would do nothing if after the regulator. What would it dampen?

 

Taking the vac line off the reg at idle MUST show an increase in pressure. That's how referenced regulators work mate. If it's not doing that it isn't working.

Or you have the vac source plumbed wrong. Can you feel a suction on the vac line when disconnected at idle?

1 minute ago, Ben C34 said:

The dampener would do nothing if after the regulator. What would it dampen?

 

Taking the vac line off the reg at idle MUST show an increase in pressure. That's how referenced regulators work mate. If it's not doing that it isn't working.

Or you have the vac source plumbed wrong. Can you feel a suction on the vac line when disconnected at idle?

Isn't the stock RB26 fuel damper in the return line? That's how I read it here:

271961703_ScreenShot2022-12-10at12_28_13AM.thumb.png.46c588e0be556871ab4b5ba08de2b778.png

7 minutes ago, damnonrs said:

Dampener is after the fuel pressure regulator on the rb26, removing the vac line changes the idling by like 0.05 bar or something like that 

If it satisfies you I also ran the car with the hose right off the fuel pressure regulator as stated and nothing changed

I agree that something is wrong if pulling the vac line only changes the fuel pressure by 0.05 bar. Look at your manifold pressure in absolute pressure. If your idle is -20 inHg then assuming your base pressure is 4 bar it should drop to 3.32 bar with the vacuum line plugged in. Are you sure your vacuum line is plugged in at the front of the balance tube? I have heard of people mixing up the charcoal canister vacuum line for the FPR vacuum line.

5 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

I agree that something is wrong if pulling the vac line only changes the fuel pressure by 0.05 bar. Look at your manifold pressure in absolute pressure. If your idle is -20 inHg then assuming your base pressure is 4 bar it should drop to 3.32 bar with the vacuum line plugged in. Are you sure your vacuum line is plugged in at the front of the balance tube? I have heard of people mixing up the charcoal canister vacuum line for the FPR vacuum line.

It’s plumbed like this

7805CA72-9C68-400B-80B1-84A580EAFFDC.png

2 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

That's the correct port, not sure why your fuel pressure is behaving weirdly then. You sure it only changed by 0.05 bar and not 0.5 bar?

I will check again tomorrow, could I have a pretty bad vacuum leak somewhere in the surge tank or something 

1 minute ago, damnonrs said:

could I have a pretty bad vacuum leak somewhere in the surge tank or something

No. Is there a strong vacuum signal on that vac line on the pressure reg when you pull it off? If there is not, suspect the source. If there is, then suspect the reg. But something is defo f**ked.

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

That's the correct port, not sure why your fuel pressure is behaving weirdly then. You sure it only changed by 0.05 bar and not 0.5 bar?

Change in real world is generally 3 - 4psi. 40 psi at idle full vacuum, 43psi at 0 vacuum with line pulled. Bar talk at this level is silly. 0.5bar change I would not expect realistically, that's a bit dramatic of a change at 7.5 psi and 0.05bar is basically no change.

12 hours ago, BK said:

Change in real world is generally 3 - 4psi. 40 psi at idle full vacuum, 43psi at 0 vacuum with line pulled. Bar talk at this level is silly. 0.5bar change I would not expect realistically, that's a bit dramatic of a change at 7.5 psi and 0.05bar is basically no change.

I was just going by the book value mentioned earlier. Wouldn't this depend on the particular slope/response of the fuel pressure regulator? I figure the goal at idle is to drop fuel pressure so you stay deeper in the linear regime of the injectors.

When I upgraded to a radium FPR, with the vacuum line pulled, base pressure is 43.5 psi. With the vacuum line back on, the pressure drops to 33.5 psi. 

Big difference between the stock FPR and the radium one for sure. 

21 hours ago, damnonrs said:

So I dove into the fuel system today, 

I removed the line coming out of the damper and plugged it into a fuel canister. The idling pressure dropped from 4.25 idling to 4.05 steady. I’m assuming the 5% improvement is because of all the twists and turns tk get back to the fuel tank. So damper isn’t the problem. But then I also tried plugging it straight from the regulator and it was the same thing. All that’s left to test now is regulator itself or the rail… which brings me to: do I buy a radium fuel rail with damper and fuel pressure regulator in one? Also check this out. When I rev the car the pressure just goes to 3.5 and jumps back to 4.2 I posted a video 

IMG_7513.MOV 72.15 MB · 1 download  

 

I'm not an expert on fuel systems but a 0.2 bar drop in fuel pressure just from the return lines not flowing enough sounds like a lot, especially if you haven't bypassed the FPCM. Have you bypassed the FPCM btw?

32 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

When I upgraded to a radium FPR, with the vacuum line pulled, base pressure is 43.5 psi. With the vacuum line back on, the pressure drops to 33.5 psi. 

Big difference between the stock FPR and the radium one for sure. 

What size fuel lines ?

What pump ?

46 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

I'm not an expert on fuel systems but a 0.2 bar drop in fuel pressure just from the return lines not flowing enough sounds like a lot, especially if you haven't bypassed the FPCM. Have you bypassed the FPCM btw?

What’s a fpcm?

this is what the fuel pressure does plugging it in and out. It raises when you unplug it

 

 

38 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Lines are stock sized.

Pump is Walbro/Aeroflow/TI automotive 525 LPH.

Though so, 10psi change is not normal and sounds very restricted. What possessed you use one of these on stock lines ?!

For example our white 32 has the same 525lph with AN8 top hat fittings, AN8 supply and return lines with an FPR1200 using PWM.

Changes about 4 - 5 psi

Stock Nismo pump  stock reg on 5/16 lines changes about 3-4psi in my 33.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
×
×
  • Create New...