Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

6 hours ago, The Bogan said:

What HP does the MPH/ET/ Weight and stuff say, those Moroso calculators are pretty accurate for a rule of thumb ball park figure...

With that ET and MPH, plus a guestimated weight of 4000 lb (1800kg), an online calculator gets 1680 hp at the fly, so after removing drive train loss of, let's say 20%, 1340 hp atw

http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php

When used against the dunnydores MPH and typical weight and drive train loss of 20% the calculator is pretty close to my old boat. 

Both the above calculator and a Moroso one we used at Autotech gave typical results.

Unless they used a different Moroso calculator than what we used to get the 1900hp???

Opinions may vary 

Hi All,

installed the camshaft in my rb30 and was in the process of installing the rockers and rocker plate. Cylinder 4,5,6 was all smooth and the plate sat flat for the rocker to bolt in, but with cylinder 1,2,3 the rocker plate doesn't sit flat ??

wngine is at TDC piston 1 and 6 are at the highest point. Do I just start to bolt the plate down apply pressure until it sits flat or do I have to rotate the crankshaft until the rocker plate sits flat? 
 

any help would be appreciated.

thanks 

Based on that description it's hard to know what the problem is.

Tdc could be on the exhaust stroke on the compression stroke. Either way bolting down the rockers will be easy on some spots and harder on others due to some valves being open and therefore you are compressing the springs  when tightening the rockers down.

Are you using a torque wrench? Are you following the service manual?

 

 

3 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Based on that description it's hard to know what the problem is.

Tdc could be on the exhaust stroke on the compression stroke. Either way bolting down the rockers will be easy on some spots and harder on others due to some valves being open and therefore you are compressing the springs  when tightening the rockers down.

Are you using a torque wrench? Are you following the service manual?

 

 

Correct, with cylinder 1,2,3 rockers are bolting down easy in some spots and not so easy in other spots. Cylinder 4,5,6 no problems!

should I do 1 full rotation on crankshaft and then try to bolt the rockers down? Or can I just put pressure on the bolts compressing the springs down? 
thanks 

You don't have a service manual?

 

It's been nearly 20 yrs since I changed a cam on an rb30.

Service manual foes say to rotate crank.

https://rb30det.com/download/r31-workshop-manual/?wpdmdl=33658&refresh=641d788a8ae221679653002

 

  • Like 1

My guess is the valves are touching the pistons and by forcing it down you’re going to even more damage.

 

Turn the crank to move the pistons down the bore and then tighten down the rockers, put the cam to tdc then move the crank back to tdc 

34 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

You don't have a service manual?

 

It's been nearly 20 yrs since I changed a cam on an rb30.

Service manual foes say to rotate crank.

https://rb30det.com/download/r31-workshop-manual/?wpdmdl=33658&refresh=641d788a8ae221679653002

 

Thanks buddy, so I would have to rotate it 180* ? would that be from the crankshaft pulley correct?

 

Okay. Bit of a problem. Cranked the car over and my oil is milky 🫣 did compression test and came up good all the cylinders were between 115-120psi. 
not losing much coolant and no bubbling or much pressure rushing out of the radiator.

im thinking maybe the turbo is blown? Can coolant leak into turbo oil drain?

should I do a coolant pressure test and see if coolant is coming out of the turbo oil drain? If yes, I'm assuming turbo needs to be rebuilt. TIA guys!

Edited by VL_Turbo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...