Jump to content
SAU Community

Driling oil feed in 23U AWD block?

JarrettL

By JarrettL,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

JarrettL Contributor

JarrettL

Posted
Posted

Alright, I've held off from posting this because it doesn't seem to make any sense and I know it's a topic that was beat to death and back two decades ago and then again after that.

I have an AWD 23U block from an ENR34 that was NA from the factory. I'm rebuilding it with a turbo NEO head and ARP studs to sell it on so I can move on to a different engine build, and I'm stumped on the oil feed. Conventional logic, as I understand it, is that the NA blocks are tapped for the oil feed from the factory, but don't drilled through into the passage. This block seems to have a small hole withing the M12 threaded hole that goes fairly deep into the block material. So it would seem at a glance to be done in this application. Only, this engine has never been turbocharged, and I didn't remove a plug from this hole when tearing it down. Does the hole need to go even further than the depth I've shown here with the drill bit? Am I missing something?

PXL_20230325_222022189.jpg

PXL_20230325_222030450.jpg

PXL_20230325_222148334.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484554-driling-oil-feed-in-23u-awd-block/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, FiXtUrE said:

Measure the hole from which welch plug you’re going to remove/tap into. Earls fittings will braided lines should do the job, depending on the hole size.

I don't think that is good advice, if you attach a turbo oil feed to a welch plug you will get coolant, not oil in most cases.

In this case the oil feed seems to be there, it is just a question of making sure is connected right through.

  • Thanks 1
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, FiXtUrE said:

What remove Welch plug, add helicoil ( which will shorten/lower the thread size though for the fitting ) Otherwise tap a thread into the existing hole.

Mate, I don't know what is going on with your posts, but I can only think one 1 welch plug in an rb that goes to an oil gallery and it is not externally accessible (behind the oil pump). There is another in the rear of the head but it is to a void not a pressure source. 

Please post a pic with exactly which welch plug you think would be suitable for use as a turbo oil feed.

To OP, I don't have a disassembled block handy, but I believe the oil galleries are on the right side of the block, so yes it could be a pretty long passage. It looks like your sump is off so spin it over and have a look

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I know the smart choice is to let this go, but FYI those welch plugs go to the water jacket and have coolant behind them, so would not be great as a turbo oil feed. OP is holding a drill, not pointing at the welch plug. Per their first pic, they are asking about the factory threaded hole in the block between cylinders 3 and 4

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
15 minutes ago, NZ-GTT said:

You may want to add another fool to your ignore list!

Considered it! It seems that our rocket surgeon has taken himself off to be an expert on Aliexpress lip extensions and body kit bullshit, in a part of the forum that I never visit. He hasn't been seen in the useful part of the forum for a week or so.

TurboTapin Experienced

TurboTapin

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Considered it! It seems that our rocket surgeon has taken himself off to be an expert on Aliexpress lip extensions and body kit bullshit, in a part of the forum that I never visit. He hasn't been seen in the useful part of the forum for a week or so.

FiXtUrE after reading your comment.

image.thumb.jpeg.e6372facc3be052ac36d294ccd2646fe.jpeg

 

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...