R32 headlight issues

[OO Dan OO]

I think this has probably been covered a million times but...

my left hand side headlights and Parker's are not working. I pulled the switch out and cleaned the terminals up but still nothing. What is the best way to troubleshoot?

I have the weird diagram from this forum. How can I test if it is a switch issue or something further down the line.

if I connect just the part in pic it seems only the left terminal when pushed down actually does anything the others don't seem to make a difference.

could possibly just hook a switch up from Jaycar if someone can tell me what all the pins do.

[GTSBoy]

You'll need to probe the appropriate terminals with a multimeter when the switch is turned on to find out if voltage is getting through the switch. Depending on what you find, you then chase along the wiring to the next loom connector, etc, looking for, finding, or not finding power.

If it's not coming out of the switch, then the switch will have a problem, either mechanical or electrical (ie, carbon on the contacts, such as you have already cleaned). Close investigation can sometimes reveal what is not working.

When you say you've cleaned the terminals, do you mean that you cleaned the bits we can see in that photo, or did you lift those rockers out and clean the pads on the underside of them and the pads they contact against when closed? Because wiping the top does nothing.

Edited March 29, 2023 by GTSBoy

[Duncan]

Last I had to check, if your multi-meter-ing shows it is a dodgy switch (likely), they are available to replace new.

*edit* yes, still available: https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-head-light-switch-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-gts

not cheap, but neither is a skyline these days

[Duncan]

sorry, to read that diagram and test the switch, you need a multimeter on continuity mode. You check the pins from the middle diagram, and the top diagram shows what should be connected when the switch is in particular settings.

For example, on OFF, no pins should have continuity to each other. In low, 40, 41 should be connected. In high, 36 should be connected to 37, 38 to 39 and 40 to 41. I guess 42 is earth for the switch's lighting

 

[GTSBoy]

Yes, I should buy one. I have to clean mine every year. I think the relays I added to the circuits have cut down the current so much that they don't wipe clean like they should. Dicked if you do, dicked if you don't.

[Duncan]

Of course, it could be a wiring loom or globe issue, so unplug the left headlight and check for 12v when the lights are on low and high

[Duncan]

3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yes, I should buy one. I have to clean mine every year. I think the relays I added to the circuits have cut down the current so much that they don't wipe clean like they should. Dicked if you do, dicked if you don't.

Yeah mine shorted out but at least it only melted instead of burning the car down

[OO Dan OO]

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

You'll need to probe the appropriate terminals with a multimeter when the switch is turned on to find out if voltage is getting through the switch. Depending on what you find, you then chase along the wiring to the next loom connector, etc, looking for, finding, or not finding power.

If it's not coming out of the switch, then the switch will have a problem, either mechanical or electrical (ie, carbon on the contacts, such as you have already cleaned). Close investigation can sometimes reveal what is not working.

When you say you've cleaned the terminals, do you mean that you cleaned the bits we can see in that photo, or did you lift those rockers out and clean the pads on the underside of them and the pads they contact against when closed? Because wiping the top does nothing.

I cleaned under the rocker between the top and bottom. 
plugging that piece in by itself and physically holding the connections I now have the left parker working but with the knob part connected I'm back to square one. Thinking about just hooking up a generic switch instead. I ain't forking out $225 for a switch.

[Duncan]

well just be aware that if you want to hook up some generic switch, it will need to be good quality / high ampage, that is why the original fails. At least 20A rated.

[GTSBoy]

10 hours ago, OO Dan OO said:

I cleaned under the rocker between the top and bottom. 
plugging that piece in by itself and physically holding the connections I now have the left parker working but with the knob part connected I'm back to square one. Thinking about just hooking up a generic switch instead. I ain't forking out $225 for a switch.

So, what you are saying is that you haven't broken out the multimeter and checked for continuity through the switch, for power actually passing through the switch, or at points further out on the loom? Why replace the switch if you haven't proven that it is the switch that is actually at fault?

Duncan's advice on which terminals are supposed to be connected in which switch positions is step one**. After that, you plug the switch back in and start looking for 12V coming out when it is on. You can tell which side is the output because one side will be hot when it is off, and the other should also go hot when it is on. And then if it is hot, you chase down the loom towards the lights, to see where the break in the continuity chain is.

**Although, I'd have to check the wiring diagrams myself, but I suspect that his listing of contacts vs low and high might be wrong. It might be more like the first pair is for parkers, the 2nd pair is for lows and the last pair is for highs, or left side and right side, or something. Or some variation on the theme. Remember that the high beams are switched on and off and flashed down on the column stalk. The relationship between the shroud switch and the column switch is best understood by looking at the full wiring diagram. Anyway, it doesn't matter. You can test for continuity and power out whether you fully understand what's supposed to happen when, or not.

When you cleaned the contact pads, did you give them a light rub with medium-fine wet&dry paper? Just wiping them will often not remove the glaze. 12V is not enough voltage to burn through it.

Have a look at the cams/wipers that make the rockers move. Are they worn down so that they do no push firmly on the rocker? If so, you might benefit from building them up very very slightly. Maybe a drop of hard glue and then file back to shape.

Also, your description of getting the left parker working suggests that the problem is not in the switch. There's only one contact for the parkers. If one side works and the other doesn't, it tends to point to dirty contacts on the plug blades/socket. They can get charred or glazed also. It's hard to see in your photo, but the blades on the connector on the switch look pretty dark. Get some deoxit or other contact cleaner spray and have a go with that and some rough cloth on a screwdriver blade or similar.

[OO Dan OO]

10 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

So, what you are saying is that you haven't broken out the multimeter and checked for continuity through the switch, for power actually passing through the switch, or at points further out on the loom? Why replace the switch if you haven't proven that it is the switch that is actually at fault?

Duncan's advice on which terminals are supposed to be connected in which switch positions is step one**. After that, you plug the switch back in and start looking for 12V coming out when it is on. You can tell which side is the output because one side will be hot when it is off, and the other should also go hot when it is on. And then if it is hot, you chase down the loom towards the lights, to see where the break in the continuity chain is.

**Although, I'd have to check the wiring diagrams myself, but I suspect that his listing of contacts vs low and high might be wrong. It might be more like the first pair is for parkers, the 2nd pair is for lows and the last pair is for highs, or left side and right side, or something. Or some variation on the theme. Remember that the high beams are switched on and off and flashed down on the column stalk. The relationship between the shroud switch and the column switch is best understood by looking at the full wiring diagram. Anyway, it doesn't matter. You can test for continuity and power out whether you fully understand what's supposed to happen when, or not.

When you cleaned the contact pads, did you give them a light rub with medium-fine wet&dry paper? Just wiping them will often not remove the glaze. 12V is not enough voltage to burn through it.

Have a look at the cams/wipers that make the rockers move. Are they worn down so that they do no push firmly on the rocker? If so, you might benefit from building them up very very slightly. Maybe a drop of hard glue and then file back to shape.

Also, your description of getting the left parker working suggests that the problem is not in the switch. There's only one contact for the parkers. If one side works and the other doesn't, it tends to point to dirty contacts on the plug blades/socket. They can get charred or glazed also. It's hard to see in your photo, but the blades on the connector on the switch look pretty dark. Get some deoxit or other contact cleaner spray and have a go with that and some rough cloth on a screwdriver blade or similar.

I have now checked the continuity nothing between 38 and 39.

im not sure what to check when it comes to 42

[Duncan]

 or if you apply earth to 42 and turn the switch to low or high and apply 12v to 40or 41, the switch lighting should turn on

[GTSBoy]

Don't worry about 42. It just provides the earth for that globe on the switch when you turn on the parkers and get interior/dash lights.

So, with no continuity between 38 and 39, now it's time to have a very close look at why that might be the case. The only way you get no continuity is if the metal bits inside are not making the required contact with each other.

[OO Dan OO]

11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Don't worry about 42. It just provides the earth for that globe on the switch when you turn on the parkers and get interior/dash lights.

So, with no continuity between 38 and 39, now it's time to have a very close look at why that might be the case. The only way you get no continuity is if the metal bits inside are not making the required contact with each other.

I worked out the black plastic bits that push the rockers down were worn down.

I am going to jump on the 3d printer and print some. I think this will do the trick.

[GTSBoy]

Sweet. A little solder wiped onto the backs of the rockers can also do the trick.

[OO Dan OO]

On 31/3/2023 at 12:35 PM, GTSBoy said:

Sweet. A little solder wiped onto the backs of the rockers can also do the trick.

I think I am just going to wire in a single switch to do the job. The switch is still temperamental. Do you know how I should wire it to a single switch. Should each section have a new relay or just mash all the wires together. It looks like it is right headlight, left headlight and dash/rear. Would running all together mess with the Current fuse/relay setup therefore run a relay per pair and just use the switch to trigger together?

[GTSBoy]

You need to keep the 3 circuits separate. You either need a double pole and single pole switch, or a triple pole switch.

[OO Dan OO]

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

You need to keep the 3 circuits separate. You either need a double pole and single pole switch, or a triple pole switch.

So can't do it using relays then

do you have an example of the witch you referenced? 

[GTSBoy]

You could do it with relays. I have 1 relay at each headlight (as well as the original switch).

This is a standard double pole switch. The two contacts you see on it are one circuit. There's another 2 contacts on the other side for the other circuit. A triple pole just has 3 sets. But do not mistake a double pole double throw switch for a triple pole. A DPDT switch has 6 contacts, but the centre contacts are the "commons" and the switch rocks back and forward between the two end terminals as outputs. So you have an "at rest" circuit and a "switched on" circuit.

Edited April 2, 2023 by GTSBoy

[OO Dan OO]

10 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

You could do it with relays. I have 1 relay at each headlight (as well as the original switch).

This is a standard double pole switch. The two contacts you see on it are one circuit. There's another 2 contacts on the other side for the other circuit. A triple pole just has 3 sets. But do not mistake a double pole double throw switch for a triple pole. A DPDT switch has 6 contacts, but the centre contacts are the "commons" and the switch rocks back and forward between the two end terminals as outputs. So you have an "at rest" circuit and a "switched on" circuit.

I ended up having 1 more crack at the original switch. I took your advice and put a skim of solder on top of the rockers. Lights are working now. Thanks