CD009 RB Conversion

[niZmO_Man]

Yep that sounds like a scam. Avoid that company if you can.

[Nightmare_mistress_R33]

Turbotapin

 

so I am about to be mounting mine up been waiting for the body to get finish at paint. I had a question. I was told our Speedo sensor it originally in the transmission but the cd009 is in the diff on the z. How did you get around this? 

[TurboTapin]

On 2/3/2025 at 8:39 PM, Nightmare_mistress_R33 said:

Turbotapin

 

so I am about to be mounting mine up been waiting for the body to get finish at paint. I had a question. I was told our Speedo sensor it originally in the transmission but the cd009 is in the diff on the z. How did you get around this? 

That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 

[Nightmare_mistress_R33]

Tapin, 

 

So got mine up and realize a few things. First was my slave line doesn’t reach the other side, so I have to get a longer hose made. I want to ask did you have to extend your wires for the CD009 sensors? One on the driver side(right side of car looking at the car from the rear) and one on the passenger side( the left side of car from rear). And do you know what those two sensors are respectively? I know it’s not Speedo since we talked on this already. And I may have to separate the trans again to swap out throw out bearing. We will see. Did you run your RB slave cylinder? I know you cracked your original but replaced it with a nismo. But wasn’t sure if you bought the one designed for the CD009 or not. Thanks 

[TurboTapin]

10 hours ago, Nightmare_mistress_R33 said:

Tapin, 

 

So got mine up and realize a few things. First was my slave line doesn’t reach the other side, so I have to get a longer hose made. I want to ask did you have to extend your wires for the CD009 sensors? One on the driver side(right side of car looking at the car from the rear) and one on the passenger side( the left side of car from rear). And do you know what those two sensors are respectively? I know it’s not Speedo since we talked on this already. And I may have to separate the trans again to swap out throw out bearing. We will see. Did you run your RB slave cylinder? I know you cracked your original but replaced it with a nismo. But wasn’t sure if you bought the one designed for the CD009 or not. Thanks 

These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder. 

S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line

As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which.

Connectors: 

VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties

VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 

[Nightmare_mistress_R33]

On 3/17/2025 at 9:41 AM, TurboTapin said:

These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder. 

S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line

As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which.

Connectors: 

VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties

VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 

Thanks for the update I truly appreciate it. I was trying to figure out the sensors. 

[Nightmare_mistress_R33]

On 17/3/2025 at 9:41 AM, TurboTapin said:

These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder. 

S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line

As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which.

Connectors: 

VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties

VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 

I’m having a gear issue where it doesn’t want to go in 2. It’ll shifts all the way in when car is off, doesn’t like to shift up to second but will shift down into second some times. And I’m curious if you had any alignment issues or if it’s just the transmission. I’m running the serial 9 shifter. 

[GTSBoy]

Try an oil additive. There's a couple of options for "easier shifting". These are essentially a similar idea to what Redline put into their Shockproof gear oils.

I had a 2nd hand R33 (in fact, as of right now, it is still in the car) that simply would not engage any gear with the engine running, with normal gear oil in it. We dropped that and replaced it with Shockproof lightweight, and suddenly the gear lever did what it was supposed to. At a cost, of course, of the then ongoing damage to internals done by running Shockproof. But the synchros were already totally uninterested in life, so there was no loss.

[TurboTapin]

13 hours ago, Nightmare_mistress_R33 said:

I’m having a gear issue where it doesn’t want to go in 2. It’ll shifts all the way in when car is off, doesn’t like to shift up to second but will shift down into second some times. And I’m curious if you had any alignment issues or if it’s just the transmission. I’m running the serial 9 shifter. 

New or used transmission? Alignment will be the same with engine running or not. If new, i'm presuming it's a clutch release bearing size issue. If used, are you certain it's a CD009/A and not an older CD008 or less? They had known synchro issues. In my opinion, these transmissions should always be purchased new, they're dirt cheap and you avoid dealing with old revisions. 

[Nightmare_mistress_R33]

11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Try an oil additive. There's a couple of options for "easier shifting". These are essentially a similar idea to what Redline put into their Shockproof gear oils.

I had a 2nd hand R33 (in fact, as of right now, it is still in the car) that simply would not engage any gear with the engine running, with normal gear oil in it. We dropped that and replaced it with Shockproof lightweight, and suddenly the gear lever did what it was supposed to. At a cost, of course, of the then ongoing damage to internals done by running Shockproof. But the synchros were already totally uninterested in life, so there was no loss.

I’ll remember that as a last choice. It’s brand new

[Nightmare_mistress_R33]

2 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

New or used transmission? Alignment will be the same with engine running or not. If new, i'm presuming it's a clutch release bearing size issue. If used, are you certain it's a CD009/A and not an older CD008 or less? They had known synchro issues. In my opinion, these transmissions should always be purchased new, they're dirt cheap and you avoid dealing with old revisions. 

It’s new. It’s the cd009. I did take the transmission apart to mill down the bellhousing and had both housings come off the gears so wondering is something isn’t in right. I am running redline. I can get it in gear running too but it’s just not easier and it’s almost like 2, 4, 6, and reverse all the back gears aren’t happy going in

[GTSBoy]

11 hours ago, Nightmare_mistress_R33 said:

I am running redline.

Hopefully not shockproof. It does crappy things to good synchros.

[Nightmare_mistress_R33]

So after like 4 hours yesterday and quite a bit of troubleshooting. Come to find out there is a screw on the back of the serial 9 shifter that was screwed in too far from the factory and the manufacturer doesn’t say anything about it but it was stopping all the back gears because it was hitting that. I pulled the shifter out and went through the gears by hand and a vise grip (dont judge me, it was on a lift) and figured out that it wasn’t the trans. So we narrowed it down to the shifter

[TurboTapin]

16 hours ago, Nightmare_mistress_R33 said:

So after like 4 hours yesterday and quite a bit of troubleshooting. Come to find out there is a screw on the back of the serial 9 shifter that was screwed in too far from the factory and the manufacturer doesn’t say anything about it but it was stopping all the back gears because it was hitting that. I pulled the shifter out and went through the gears by hand and a vise grip (dont judge me, it was on a lift) and figured out that it wasn’t the trans. So we narrowed it down to the shifter

The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 

[Nightmare_mistress_R33]

16 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 

Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell

[TurboTapin]

1 hour ago, Nightmare_mistress_R33 said:

Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell

Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$.

Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.

[Satwinder]

Hey man

do you have pic of adaptor plate by any chance I need to match up the bolt holes as my gearbox adaptor plate ones are way off the only bolts of starter motor are matching thanks 

[Satwinder]

Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks

[TurboTapin]

On 25/06/2025 at 5:31 AM, Satwinder said:

Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks

If ever you have any other questions, reply to one of my messages so I get the notification. I only saw your message now. Cheers! 

[tidi0x]

Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car. 

As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries. 

End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel. 

Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild.