Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys!

I want to finally finish my interior but one thing is driving me absolutely nuts.

The cluster lighting just gives up intermittently. It can be any one or multiple of the 5 bulbs. It occurs mostly on the left side, speedo/fuel gauge, but not exclusively. Then they suddenly come back either by themselves or by twisting the headlight switch back and forth a few times.

I have replaced all 5 bulbs, cleaned the connectors on the bulb housing, headlight switch, and the tracks behind the cluster using isopropyl alcohol. Still happening. I don’t see any loose contacts except that my headlight switch is a bit “sandy” feeling and sometimes doesn’t click into place in a satisfying manner.

To add to that, sometimes only one (can be left, right, or none) headlights work. I need to play around with the headlight switch and find that “sweet spot” where both headlights work. Could be a bad switch of course, but that doesn’t really explain the cluster problem. No issues with my taillights or any other lighting either.

Would appreciate any help! Removing the dash and cluster over and over again is getting boring image.gif.c3384e5907bdeb191ea808775cd2d401.gif

Cheers,
- Vincent

2 hours ago, vjm99 said:

Hi guys!

I want to finally finish my interior but one thing is driving me absolutely nuts.

The cluster lighting just gives up intermittently. It can be any one or multiple of the 5 bulbs. It occurs mostly on the left side, speedo/fuel gauge, but not exclusively. Then they suddenly come back either by themselves or by twisting the headlight switch back and forth a few times.

I have replaced all 5 bulbs, cleaned the connectors on the bulb housing, headlight switch, and the tracks behind the cluster using isopropyl alcohol. Still happening. I don’t see any loose contacts except that my headlight switch is a bit “sandy” feeling and sometimes doesn’t click into place in a satisfying manner.

To add to that, sometimes only one (can be left, right, or none) headlights work. I need to play around with the headlight switch and find that “sweet spot” where both headlights work. Could be a bad switch of course, but that doesn’t really explain the cluster problem. No issues with my taillights or any other lighting either.

Would appreciate any help! Removing the dash and cluster over and over again is getting boring image.gif.c3384e5907bdeb191ea808775cd2d401.gif

Cheers,
- Vincent

You sure it isn't a bad headlight switch? I need to look at the R32 wiring diagrams to be sure but I'm not sure those issues are as independent as they seem.

We talked about this a month ago including posting the wiring of the switches

Headlight switch is a common failure point on R32, attempting to clean is an option but I would (did!) replace the whole switch as they are readily available new, and you won't have to worry again until 2055.

If you still have issues with the dash lights after replacing the switch I'd check the loom between the headlight switch and dash for continuity issues or loose/damaged pins, and it is possible (but less likely) if there is a single ground for the dash lights and nothing else that has an issue.

10 hours ago, vjm99 said:

Could be a bad switch of course

Definitely is a bad switch. Duncan linked to the recent thread where I gave advice on this.

As to the dash lights, get the wiring diagram and check it out closely. You want to understand where each section of the dash lighting gets its 12V and its ground, and pursue those into the circuit board and wiring, to see if you can find the culprit. Just randomly cleaning stuff only works if the stuff you're cleaning is the dirty culprit. If the problem is a bit further back in the wiring, you solve nothing.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...