Jump to content
SAU Community

Rust on the wheel wells - should i be concerned?

kevboost7

By kevboost7,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

kevboost7 Community Regular

kevboost7

Posted
Posted

Was doing brakes and noticed the coating was peeling on the wheel wells. I started peeling some off and found this rust. This is my first project car and not sure how to tackle this and if i should be really concerned. Anyone have experience with this? IMG_5573.thumb.JPG.1452fd1003a0899a13d3ebf082385143.JPGIMG_5574.thumb.JPG.f09c9ec5beee31561bba2bfe864ad2a2.JPGIMG_5575.thumb.JPG.bfddd6c9819d117b699358525644e43a.JPG

robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted

Remove old coating, wire wheel affected areas and treat with product, prep and reseal with your choice of product.

Depends how deep the rust goes  may need to do some patch panels.

Had similar on one of my cars and did the above, used a underbody coating after treating and repairing sections.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

Was doing brakes and noticed the coating was peeling on the wheel wells. I started peeling some off and found this rust. This is my first project car and not sure how to tackle this and if i should be really concerned. Anyone have experience with this? IMG_5573.thumb.JPG.1452fd1003a0899a13d3ebf082385143.JPGIMG_5574.thumb.JPG.f09c9ec5beee31561bba2bfe864ad2a2.JPGIMG_5575.thumb.JPG.bfddd6c9819d117b699358525644e43a.JPG

Yes, you should be concerned. How concerned? Don't know. Poke a screwdriver and see how deep the rust goes. If it makes a hole you need to weld in new metal.

  • 1 month later...
kevboost7 Community Regular

kevboost7

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

On 6/26/2023 at 5:14 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

Remove old coating, wire wheel affected areas and treat with product, prep and reseal with your choice of product.

Depends how deep the rust goes  may need to do some patch panels.

Had similar on one of my cars and did the above, used a underbody coating after treating and repairing sections.

1. When and where do i stop peeling back the current coating? Do i remove an entire section? because the wheel well is connected to the underbody and the coating spans the entire bottom side of the car.

2. After i clean the rust area with wire-wheel, how do i prep and reseal the surface? Since the current coating peels in irregular shapes, would i just spray over the existing coating to blend it in? (Not sure if that makes sense. For example, if I'm painting a house, each room is sectioned off so its easy to tell where and when to stop. But in this car, the wheel well, is part of the frame and goes to the underside)

kevboost7 Community Regular

kevboost7

Posted
  • Author
Posted
20 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

1. When you stop exposing rust, and not before.

2. Any texture left on existing coatings with abrasives will provide a key for the primer (proper primer goes on bare metal first).

What do you mean a key?

  • 1 year later...
kevboost7 Community Regular

kevboost7

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update: I started peeling all the undercoating and this stuff was really tough to remove when it was bonded properly with the metal.. The initial top coating (rubber) came off easy, but there was this primer layer, sort of vanilla colored stuff that was extremely stuck on to the bare metal.  

 

This is what it looks like halfway removed. You can see the silver bare metal, then the vanilla colored primer, then the black rubber undercoating. IMG_0169.thumb.jpg.0a6e4399221c777946228a7859bc5300.jpg

kevboost7 Community Regular

kevboost7

Posted
  • Author
Posted

IMG_0194.thumb.jpg.aa25980e63ff8ad55b6f2a9d1b6caf3b.jpg

This is what it looks like when i was done. This took A LOT of elbow grease. Ill upload pictures tomorrow of it painted. I used this stuff from Eastwood called Rust Encapsulater plus. 

kevboost7 Community Regular

kevboost7

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

So when you say painted, do you mean sealed with something like rhino lining or line-x?

No, i used Rust Encapsulator Plus. Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Plus Quart

 

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-plus-quart.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwo8S3BhDeARIsAFRmkONxM27m1gqntP8Uw-ktrfx9g2Eq_UtGGcqlM0Sn3sYdcU1RyivLnNEaAi7LEALw_wcB&wcid=18675710285&wickedid=657100129148&wickedsource=google&wv=4

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted
38 minutes ago, kevboost7 said:

its not really a truck bed liner 

All of that material you found hard to remove is hard to remove for a reason. If the factory could get away with using paint I'm sure they would. If I was doing the repair, I'd be looking to replace the sealant I had just removed with something equitant or better.  

 

kevboost7 Community Regular

kevboost7

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

All of that material you found hard to remove is hard to remove for a reason. If the factory could get away with using paint I'm sure they would. If I was doing the repair, I'd be looking to replace the sealant I had just removed with something equitant or better.  

 

Did that stuff come from the factory? I wasn't sure if the undercoating was sprayed afterwards to hide the rust. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...