Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I finally got round to purchasing the replacement solenoid for the ATTESA pump (refer my post in Vic section from April/2022).

So today I tried installing it - what a @#$% problem that is!. Gave up quickly, decided to see if simply bleeding ATTESA would help. Found a uTube video, watched, seemed simple enough. Had difficulty bleeding the rear nipple (can't swing a brake spanner up there), and had minimal fluid come out.

So, to front, disconnect clip, crack nipple, pump works for a bit, then stops. Keep cracking nipple, pump not working. (when disconnected, torque gauge goes 60% - is that right?)

So, anyone got a diagnosis? Is the whole ATTESA f*kced? Do I need to totally dismantle it and reassemble?

BTW, pic of my reservoir:

PC240034.thumb.JPG.0a70a10765c12e3e6cf82c863965bb1c.JPG

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485164-having-trouble-bleeding-attesa/
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, blind_elk said:

I finally got round to purchasing the replacement solenoid for the ATTESA pump (refer my post in Vic section from April/2022).

So today I tried installing it - what a @#$% problem that is!. Gave up quickly, decided to see if simply bleeding ATTESA would help. Found a uTube video, watched, seemed simple enough. Had difficulty bleeding the rear nipple (can't swing a brake spanner up there), and had minimal fluid come out.

So, to front, disconnect clip, crack nipple, pump works for a bit, then stops. Keep cracking nipple, pump not working. (when disconnected, torque gauge goes 60% - is that right?)

So, anyone got a diagnosis? Is the whole ATTESA f*kced? Do I need to totally dismantle it and reassemble?

BTW, pic of my reservoir:

PC240034.thumb.JPG.0a70a10765c12e3e6cf82c863965bb1c.JPG

 

The air gap in your reservoir at the bottom should not exceed 5mm. When the air bleed mode is set by unplugging the connector the pump should run to maintain a fixed target pressure. If it's not re-pressurizing after cracking the nipple for a second then something might be wrong. But if it holds pressure then it's probably fine.

  • 1 month later...

Well, finally got new solenoid fitted - no-one said anything about needing to drop the diff! Still getting code 18, which suggests its the pump that is rooted.

Anyone know if the pump is repairable / serviceable? Where I might find one (even to take apart to see how it works)?

1 hour ago, blind_elk said:

Well, finally got new solenoid fitted - no-one said anything about needing to drop the diff! Still getting code 18, which suggests its the pump that is rooted.

Anyone know if the pump is repairable / serviceable? Where I might find one (even to take apart to see how it works)?

https://www.nismo.co.jp/heritage_parts/repair.html

Nismo offers an ATTESA actuator block rebuild service, but have you replaced the accumulator on the ATTESA block yet? That can cause a code 18.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...