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1 hour ago, Blakeo said:

Between a exedy hypertwin and the uniclutch, uniclutch is nicer.

Clutch pedal is definitely lighter, I've only put 3000km on the car but I'm happy with it atm.

what car ? what power ? pics ? more details PLEASE :D

1 hour ago, Blakeo said:

Between a exedy hypertwin and the uniclutch, uniclutch is nicer.

Clutch pedal is definitely lighter, I've only put 3000km on the car but I'm happy with it atm.

Have you given it any abuse? 

I.e. on the track (as in circuit not the silly roll race "track"), big RPM, big down shifts, etc. or any skid pans/drift days?

That's the testing I would like to hear about.

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Have you given it any abuse? 

I.e. on the track (as in circuit not the silly roll race "track"), big RPM, big down shifts, etc. or any skid pans/drift days?

That's the testing I would like to hear about.

Not yet, it got tuned with this clutch and made 480rwhp.

I've got it off the road atm to sort out the fuel lines and hopefully make a touch over 600rwhp.

I'll be taking it to the drags and drifting once I get it sorted.

  • Like 3

Ist post I joined after seeing this thread 

I have just installed on a r33gtst

at first I liked it but I am finding the peddle free play changes …. To a point I have had a zero free play condition and the thrust bearing stayed engaged. I had to back off the adjustment on peddle.  
I am about to change slave and fit a braided line to see if I can get a better result 

  • Like 1
7 minutes ago, RB2533 said:

I am about to change slave and fit a braided line to see if I can get a better result 

I wouldn't be surprised if this helps. And I wouldn't be surprised if it keeps changing for a bit after the new slave&hose go on, because I find that my clutch always does this sort of shenanigans after any serious dismantlery. And then it settles down after a few corrective tweaks such as you've already done.

5 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

I wouldn't be surprised if this helps. And I wouldn't be surprised if it keeps changing for a bit after the new slave&hose go on, because I find that my clutch always does this sort of shenanigans after any serious dismantlery. And then it settles down after a few corrective tweaks such as you've already done.

I hope so.  It seems pretty nice. OEM feel the lot. 

1 hour ago, RB2533 said:

Ist post I joined after seeing this thread 

I have just installed on a r33gtst

at first I liked it but I am finding the peddle free play changes …. To a point I have had a zero free play condition and the thrust bearing stayed engaged. I had to back off the adjustment on peddle.  
I am about to change slave and fit a braided line to see if I can get a better result 

 

Did you get the sport or track ?

From what the documentation says the uniclutch has a small amount of movement to disengage. 

So your story of tricky pedal setup seems common. 

 

Hopefully you got it bled up too, as the bite point moving around is usually either plates wearing in or air in the line. 

 

 

34 minutes ago, Butters said:

 

Did you get the sport or track ?

From what the documentation says the uniclutch has a small amount of movement to disengage. 

So your story of tricky pedal setup seems common. 

 

Hopefully you got it bled up too, as the bite point moving around is usually either plates wearing in or air in the line. 

 

 

Sport. I didn’t rebleed it cause I just removed the slave and left connected. 
 

I will change line and slave and see how it goes.  

Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others. 
 

I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment 

 

I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r

Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is. 
 

last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline. 
 

reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit. 
 

it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise

 

 

  • Like 3
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung. 

So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing?

Thanks in advance.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

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