Stock rb25det neo questions

[Wazmond]

Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock?

Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?

[GTSBoy]

7 hours ago, Wazmond said:

Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock?
 

Not stock. All remade. Mostly looks stock because the pipes run to and from the standard holes in the inner guard to get to the return flow FMIC.

7 hours ago, Wazmond said:

Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?

I'm not sure which question you're trying to ask, because it seems like "stock position" vs "stock position".

[Wazmond]

Apologies, while id like to put the MAF as close to the TB and relocate the recirc, this may be too much work.
Will most likely end up just putting it on the original AFM spot ( onto/next to the airbox ). 
Was going through nistune, found a pretty nifty doc on this. Nistune MAF Notes.

Also, i was looking through the bay, and there seems to be a tube/line connected from the A/C to the intercooler piping ( Between the smic and the recirc), what does this do as the crossover fmic piping doesnt have any connection? plumbing? not sure what you call it but the nipple thing ahah. 

Also, been reading up more about crossover fmic in regards to the legality of having the hole drilled for the piping, this would most likely need to be engineered right?

[Murray_Calavera]

34 minutes ago, Wazmond said:

Also, been reading up more about crossover fmic in regards to the legality of having the hole drilled for the piping, this would most likely need to be engineered right?

If you are genuinely considering trying to get this engineered, I would strongly advise finding the engineer that is happy to sign that off first before you put the hole in your car. 

I've seen cars get defected for this and not be able to be put back on the road as no engineer they spoke to was happy to sign if off.  

[MBS206]

21 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

If you are genuinely considering trying to get this engineered, I would strongly advise finding the engineer that is happy to sign that off first before you put the hole in your car. 

I've seen cars get defected for this and not be able to be put back on the road as no engineer they spoke to was happy to sign if off.  

Depending where the whole gets drilled, and what country/state you're talking about, quite likely not.

 

Under ole vehicle mod rules in NSW, VSI06 allowed for drilling of holes in "non structural" areas. So you could drill a hole through the inner guard, and not need engineering. You couldn't drill over seams, and it was advised to add extra reinforcing around the hole, as well as something to protect from sharp edges.

 

Again, it's all about finding the documentation for where the mod is to be done, AND then being able to explain the situation, with the documentation as to why you don't need engineering, with a positive attitude, to any one of the likes eg, police, vehicle inspector, etc.

[GTSBoy]

Meanwhile, 20+ years ago, I pulled out the 105mm hole saw and went straight down through the inner guard in front of the airbox to get my stormwater pipe cold air intake in. Right behind the two stock holes for the intercooler pipes. Those have no reinforcement (apart from a couple of robust pieces of steel pipe through them!).

I feel that the Australian vehicle standards crews put way too much emphasis on "maintaining the crash performance" of cars and not enough consideration of "any crash is a new and wonderful experiment with a random selection of parameters and you will never be able to tell if an extra 80mm hole through some sheet metal caused a significant difference...but if you close your eyes and squint at the whole structure, engage your engineering brain and have a good think about it, you'd have to expect that it would do jack all."

[Wazmond]

I noticed theres piping between the A/C and the stock intake piping(just before the crossover). What has people done for this? Should i be creating a nipple for the pipe?

[Duncan]

Can you post of pic of exactly what you mean? 

Unless you have a fancy aftermarket intercooler, the AC and intake are not connected in any way

[Wazmond]

 

[Duncan]

lol thanks for the pics but some arrows might have helped for context.

If you mean the bit I've badly traced in red, that is a PITA vacuum signal for the power steering pump, only R34 GTT was "lucky" enough to get it. Yes you will need a nipple of the same size somewhere in the intake between the air filter and the throttle or the power steering idle up will not work correctly

[Wazmond]

Apologies... thought i had outlined it...

Cheers for the response, I'll get a nipple sorted out for this.

[Wazmond]

Welp, after months of procastinating, busy weekends and bad timing, the new intercooler is on!(greddy cross flow)

[Wazmond]

So the original radiator is leaking now. Looking at getting a fully aluminium one next.
Am I correct in saying that the Series 2 Auto Stageas have a separate trans cooler from factory (located in between the rad and intercooler in my previous post/message).
 

Currently looking at Fenix $460, Blitz $700, GReddy $800, and KoyoRad $740.
What are everyones thought on Fenix ( ive read a few comments saying theyre cheap Chinese rebrands etc and how their build quality is... well.. chinese...)  compared to the others? Worth the extra couple hundies?

[dbm7]

All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie;

https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/

...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions...

...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?...

....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)...

...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended...

...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'...

/3.5cents 

 

[GTSBoy]

I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.

[Watermouse]

13 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.

I got a Fenix for my LS1 VZ Commo last yr and it was a perfect fit and I liked the quality of it.

[Duncan]

FWIW Fenix are made in NZ, not China. I've used them before with no issues too.