Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was wondering if someone might be able to help me out. 

R33 GTR, everything is pretty much stock. 

For some reason while I'm lightly accelerating, it seems like my oem recirc valve is opening and closing making this constant whoosh sound. If I get on the pedal from that point it holds boost, but its really annoying when I'm cruising. If I'm cruising uphill, its bad enough that I have to pretty much floor it. It doesn't matter what gear I'm in. 

basically when I hit about 3k rpm I start hearing the whooshing noise and it wont let my turbo boost unless I get on the pedal. 

I cant imagine this being normal. 

I've also searched around and I cant really find information on anyone else having this issue. 

Has anyone else had an issue like this?

Edited by NINJA GTR

Sounds normal to me, OEM Nissan BOVs open as soon as you're below atmospheric and there's ever so slightly pressure being generated by the turbos.

You'll probably get the turbo shuffle too from the two turbos pushing towards a single hot pipe too.

You can easily determine if it is actually a BOV problem by blocking off both valves temporarily and seeing if the issue still occurs....a blanking plate from cutting up a coke can is the traditional method.

It might be the stock BOVs are done for? I don't think I experience this behavior which would be super obvious on expressway driving. ~3200 RPM going uphill getting into boost is really not unusual for these cars. It is very doughy around 3000 RPM.

Turbosmart makes direct replacements in the factory location that you can cap the atmospheric vents on as seen here: https://www.turbosmart.com/product/ts-0203-1072/

If you can actually diagnose it as failed I would probably go straight to those because they actually open all the way unlike the OEM valves which have surprisingly little travel.
 

Edited by joshuaho96
5 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Sounds normal to me, OEM Nissan BOVs open as soon as you're below atmospheric and there's ever so slightly pressure being generated by the turbos.

You'll probably get the turbo shuffle too from the two turbos pushing towards a single hot pipe too.

Thanks for the response here.

Would getting a blow off valve (HKS SSQ) and recirculating it fix this issue?

2 minutes ago, Duncan said:

If you have an aftermarket ECU, a log of AFM, Boost and TPS might help. 

But frankly, a standard GTR is no response king compared to a modern turbo car

Thats exactly how it feels, lack of response. 

I was going to go with N1 turbos and run the PFC L Jetro and tune it for the time being. I am starting to think it might not fix it. 

Look for cracks in the signal lines running to the BOVs. They are long hoses and if you can vent enough air out of them (through cracks) you can cause a significant pressure difference between what the engine is seeing and what the BOV diaphragm is seeing.

900 year old Nissan OEM hoses lying in the bottom of the engine bay are as likely to be stuffed as anything else is.

3 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

It might be the stock BOVs are done for? I don't think I experience this behavior which would be super obvious on expressway driving. ~3200 RPM going uphill getting into boost is really not unusual for these cars. It is very doughy around 3000 RPM.

Turbosmart makes direct replacements in the factory location that you can cap the atmospheric vents on as seen here: https://www.turbosmart.com/product/ts-0203-1072/

If you can actually diagnose it as failed I would probably go straight to those because they actually open all the way unlike the OEM valves which have surprisingly little travel.
 

Got it, I'm glad I got a little bit of confirmation that a stock GTR should not feel like this. 

I will see if I can get aftermarket bov and recirculate it to see if it will make a difference. 

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

Look for cracks in the signal lines running to the BOVs. They are long hoses and if you can vent enough air out of them (through cracks) you can cause a significant pressure difference between what the engine is seeing and what the BOV diaphragm is seeing.

900 year old Nissan OEM hoses lying in the bottom of the engine bay are as likely to be stuffed as anything else is.

I'll do this first. It seems easy enough. I will hunt for the BOV line and see if it needs to be replaced. 

I appreciate all the help here. This forum rocks. 

Just now, NINJA GTR said:

Got it, I'm glad I got a little bit of confirmation that a stock GTR should not feel like this. 

I will see if I can get aftermarket bov and recirculate it to see if it will make a difference. 

I agree with Duncan's advice which is start by capping off the the recirculating valves so they don't open and see if that fixes the issue. If that works you can start by replacing the rubber hoses. There's one hose that goes from the air chamber to the BOV in the fender which is going to be feeling for it blind. Then it branches off to a Y inside the fender and then two more hoses which shouldn't be too bad to figure out.

Keep in mind blocking the bypass valve will cause some weird behavior due to reversion so don't drive it like that too long.

2 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

I agree with Duncan's advice which is start by capping off the the recirculating valves so they don't open and see if that fixes the issue. If that works you can start by replacing the rubber hoses. There's one hose that goes from the air chamber to the BOV in the fender which is going to be feeling for it blind. Then it branches off to a Y inside the fender and then two more hoses which shouldn't be too bad to figure out.

Keep in mind blocking the bypass valve will cause some weird behavior due to reversion so don't drive it like that too long.

is there a write up or a video of how to block off the bypass valves?

37 minutes ago, NINJA GTR said:

......I was going to go with N1 turbos and run the PFC L Jetro and tune it for the time being. I am starting to think it might not fix it. 

I just wanted to comment on this. I run genuine Nissan N1 turbos on the race car as I am only allowed to use factory parts. They are horrible, 270o journal bearing turbos which are both laggy and unreliable (to be fair, they were state of the art in 1993). They come on boost at about 4,000rpm which is not impossible in race use but is about 1,000-1,500 rpm laggier than a modern alternative for the same target power.

There are plenty of good aftermarket options for low mounted twins which will look factory, but spare yourself the pain and don't go genuine N1s

  • Like 3
48 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

And please don't get SSQVs

GOT IT! haha

32 minutes ago, Duncan said:

I just wanted to comment on this. I run genuine Nissan N1 turbos on the race car as I am only allowed to use factory parts. They are horrible, 270o journal bearing turbos which are both laggy and unreliable (to be fair, they were state of the art in 1993). They come on boost at about 4,000rpm which is not impossible in race use but is about 1,000-1,500 rpm laggier than a modern alternative for the same target power.

There are plenty of good aftermarket options for low mounted twins which will look factory, but spare yourself the pain and don't go genuine N1s

Ok sorry for the confusion they aren't the N1, they are the older garret ball bearing turbos. I believe the garret 2860R part number 707160-7. I am praying they do not lag. 

Edited by NINJA GTR
11 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Inb4 Duncan has a sads

Convert to a single, twin scroll modern turbo.

Let's just skip the middleman here and convince BMW to make a mirrored version of their B58 that is somehow direct fit for RB applications.

  • Haha 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
×
×
  • Create New...