Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I did a smoke test this week chasing vacuum leaks and found two leaks which I fixed up... Now having a weird issue where it starts and at idle after a few seconds the fuel pressure suddenly goes to 0 and stalls.. if I blip the throttle, it will regain pressure and keep going though. I put a new fuel filter on and drained the old fuel and put new fuel in but maybe thats stirred up some crap in the fuel tank and blocked the intake or something??? Any other ideas? FPR stuffed?

EDIT: Also, when it stalls, the pump primes and pressure goes back up and it starts again as per normal and happens all over again.

Edited by Tim32
1 hour ago, Tim32 said:

Hey guys, I did a smoke test this week chasing vacuum leaks and found two leaks which I fixed up... Now having a weird issue where it starts and at idle after a few seconds the fuel pressure suddenly goes to 0 and stalls.. if I blip the throttle, it will regain pressure and keep going though. I put a new fuel filter on and drained the old fuel and put new fuel in but maybe thats stirred up some crap in the fuel tank and blocked the intake or something??? Any other ideas? FPR stuffed?

EDIT: Also, when it stalls, the pump primes and pressure goes back up and it starts again as per normal and happens all over again.

Check your FPCM. What happens if you bypass it? The ECU will bypass it during prime + initial start, then the FPCM kicks in and slows the pump down.

If you've been mucking with vacuum lines, start there, and check you have your vac line on properly, and on a vacuum line that isn't flowing air, it's just a vacuum source.

 

When you measure your fuel pressure, are you measuring absolute fuel pressure, or gauge pressure compared to the inlet manifold?

Hey guys, thanks for the replies! (We are noobs so sorry if some of this seems obvious or is completely wrong)

@joshuaho96 I did go looking for the FPCM (after googling) but it's an old drift car so I think that has been bypassed already, the fuel pump is wired directly to the battery.

@MBS206 OK I'll double check vacuum lines. I'm just looking at the FPR gauge, shows around 40PSI while priming and idle, until instant drop to 0, not even a slow drop, like instant.

 

1 hour ago, Tim32 said:

Hey guys, thanks for the replies! (We are noobs so sorry if some of this seems obvious or is completely wrong)

@joshuaho96 I did go looking for the FPCM (after googling) but it's an old drift car so I think that has been bypassed already, the fuel pump is wired directly to the battery.

@MBS206 OK I'll double check vacuum lines. I'm just looking at the FPR gauge, shows around 40PSI while priming and idle, until instant drop to 0, not even a slow drop, like instant.

 

How is the Fuel pressure gauge connected, show photos, what's it referencing etc.

 

Get photos of how the fuel pump is wired.

I'm assuming there's a relay triggering it, if so, measure what the signal wires are doing. From memory the ECU pulls to ground, so find the coil wire that goes to the ECU and measure resistance to ground.

 

If it's an old drift car, what ECU is in it?

9 minutes ago, Tim32 said:

Here's some pics, ECU is stock. thanks again.

IMG_3128.jpeg

IMG_3127.jpeg

That wiring looks like it was done by a 12 year old with a methamphetamine addiction. Start by redoing that disaster. What you're describing has nothing to do with your FPR vac source. 

  • Haha 2

I gotta agree that FP wiring looks, interesting.

And questionable.

 

I'd be doing some probing to see what circuit is shutting off.

It actually sounds like FPCM wiring is partly in use.

Priming, starting are all at full power from memory, then a few seconds later drops to half strength, and it looks like that signal isn't getting to your FP, as a hypothesis that is.

 

Needs more probing on a multimeter being done.

1 hour ago, MBS206 said:

I gotta agree that FP wiring looks, interesting.

And questionable.

 

I'd be doing some probing to see what circuit is shutting off.

It actually sounds like FPCM wiring is partly in use.

Priming, starting are all at full power from memory, then a few seconds later drops to half strength, and it looks like that signal isn't getting to your FP, as a hypothesis that is.

 

Needs more probing on a multimeter being done.

This is exactly what I was thinking, I just wasn't expecting whatever that hackjob was. Skyline owners never disappoint.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...