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Stock speakers / head unit functionality

Sleepergm
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Sleepergm Collaborator

Sleepergm

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Hi all,

so some of my speakers still work some I don’t think work. The old head unit is still all functional. If I keep the stock head unit as I feel it’s vintage then can I just pop in new speakers - would that be plug and play? Would I need to bypass the amps in the doors and back? Heard there’s 3 of them. 
anyone run a blue tooth into the stock head unit? Or is the only option running one of those tape decks with cable coming out? 
my cd deck controller although rare I don’t think is working anymore either. Guess if I got that working with the speakers then I could load some cds. 
 

just seeing my options here if anyone has some advise. 

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
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Yes, the speakers are plug and play to replace with something newer and better, as long as they have the same resistance and physically fit where the old ones do, I'd start with replacing them (because you will need to anyway) and if you still have issues will need to look into the wiring/amps/head unit (in decreasing order of likely to have failed).

For bluetooth I've used Parrot kits for years, they wire directly into the speaker cables and give you bluetooth phone and music including good quality mic for the phone (I'm almost audible when using the phone over bluetooth in the stagea, which is a miracle). I'm sure there are other brands but quality of the mic varies and it is hard to tell before you install it

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Sleepergm Collaborator

Sleepergm

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8 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Depends on whether the speakers or the amps or the wiring are dead.

This is actually a valid point. Need to test the wiring to see if it’s still good. As my cd changer control isn’t working now. 

Sleepergm Collaborator

Sleepergm

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2 hours ago, Duncan said:

Yes, the speakers are plug and play to replace with something newer and better, as long as they have the same resistance and physically fit where the old ones do, I'd start with replacing them (because you will need to anyway) and if you still have issues will need to look into the wiring/amps/head unit (in decreasing order of likely to have failed).

For bluetooth I've used Parrot kits for years, they wire directly into the speaker cables and give you bluetooth phone and music including good quality mic for the phone (I'm almost audible when using the phone over bluetooth in the stagea, which is a miracle). I'm sure there are other brands but quality of the mic varies and it is hard to tell before you install it

So u just use upgraded speakers and a blue tooth with the stock head unit? Do u have any recommendations for speaks that will fit? Thanks great info. 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The front speakers in an R32 are 6x4s which is a shit size. You can fit 6.5" woofers or coaxials in there but you need to make a mounting board from MDF. I have a post on here somewhere showing what I made.

You can fit 6.5" in the parcel shelf easily enough.

If upgrading the head unit, the stock speaker wiring is not really fat enough to run big speakers (ie the wires into the doors or up to the rear) because the amplifiers are located next to the speakers. Running new speaker wires front and rear is a good idea anyway.

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blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

I recently replaced my speakers. I got a brand called "Hertz" from No Limit Sound in South Melbourne (nolimitcsv.com.au). DCX460 is a 6x4 two-way coax speaker for the door. A minor mod required to utilise the existing mounts. And DCX160 is a 6.5" direct replacement for the rears.

(if you're not in Melb, then I believe some Autobarn stores stock them)

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Hertz are a good (euro?) brand, they specify high impedance and frequency response for factory setups. Downside is higher cost. If you can't run an amp and have to rely on factory amp, chances are Herts are a good but expensive buy.

But like I said above, having done 2 R32 steroes, it's much easier to run your own cables + amp + speakers, your head unit should only require the battery +12V and ignition +12V. You can run earths/grounds and all the other wires yourself.

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