Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey y'all! So I am the owner of a shiny new '99 ENR34 25GT-Four, 5spd manual. Took it to the tire shop to get new shoes. They mismatched the front and rear axles (225/40s on rear, 225/45s on front), so AWD system went bonkers for the next day. Took it back in, they fixed it, but I noticed about 8-9 big drops of red fluid in my parking spot. Leaking has stopped, but it's clear that the transfer case may have been stressed/hurt by this debacle.

I'm taking it in for inspection tomorrow. If things are FUBAR, I have a few questions.

- ENR34 manual transmission transfer cases seem impossible to source. Can a GTR transfer case fit? Or if not the whole thing, just seals or components? GTR is 6spd, mine's 5spd, so I'm thinking no, but lmk.

- Finding a few RB25DE NEO AWD auto transmissions for sale, for decently cheap. If my only option is to swap to auto, what else will I need besides an auto-specific gauge cluster, and associated wiring?

- I imagine the R32/33 GTS4 transmissions/transfer cases are a no-go? They're not NEO engines, so unsure.

- RB25DET/4WD setup from the Stagea, any parts that transfer over?

I did search up for this on SAU and google, very little info covered.

 

This is my first post, so apologies for breaking any rules, please let me know, and thanks for the help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485870-enr34-leaking-transfer-case/
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The 5 spd AWD boxes are all like-for like. They might not all be identical (covering >10 yrs of production means that many parts were updated as they went) but they are the same thing.

You're not going to be swapping to auto.

Appreciate it man, gives me hope based on my Google searches on availability of GTR parts. 

When you say I'm "not going to," is this in the vein of "who on earth would want auto," or more "it's impossible?"

Not trying to be rude, truly don't understand haha. I know, it'd be a madman move to go manny to auto, but if it IS my only option, I'd be curious on the lift.

4 minutes ago, AdiR34 said:

"who on earth would want auto,"

The autos suck. Anyone with an auto wants to go manual.

Also, the one thing you don't really need to change is the dash. You don't really need to know (on the dash) what gear position you have selected. What you do have to change is the tailshaft, a bunch of wiring, probably gearbox crossmember, a bunch of fiddly shit like the spigot bearing in the back end of the crank, find a flex plate and a converter, etc. A whole lot of pain.

Most of those autos have been rightfully put into metal recycling bins, so they're not exactly easy to find either.

2 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

The autos suck. Anyone with an auto wants to go manual.

Also, the one thing you don't really need to change is the dash. You don't really need to know (on the dash) what gear position you have selected. What you do have to change is the tailshaft, a bunch of wiring, probably gearbox crossmember, a bunch of fiddly shit like the spigot bearing in the back end of the crank, find a flex plate and a converter, etc. A whole lot of pain.

Most of those autos have been rightfully put into metal recycling bins, so they're not exactly easy to find either.

Wow, didn't realize it was THAT much of a PITA haha. 

Can I potentially source an auto transfer case to salvage parts from it for a rebuild of my manual case, if it's FUBAR? Is it like [part set a=manual], [part set a + part set b = auto], or are they configured/engineered completely differently?

Before worrying too much about what to do....most likely the transfer case just got hot from all the work and has been pushing fluid out the breather.

Just start with a full fluid change with some nice synthetic auto trans oil (and have a good look at the oil that comes out).

The xfer cases can be rebuilt if necessary, don't worry too much about swapping unless you need it back on the road the next day.

BTW the gearbox and transfer case are separate (or at least, separate-able) so you you can keep your current trans and swap a new xfer case onto it if needed.

I should add, you probably have access to options we don't like Q50/60/70 AWD boxes too, I bet the xfer case interchanges

15 hours ago, AdiR34 said:

Hey y'all! So I am the owner of a shiny new '99 ENR34 25GT-Four, 5spd manual. Took it to the tire shop to get new shoes. They mismatched the front and rear axles (225/40s on rear, 225/45s on front), so AWD system went bonkers for the next day. Took it back in, they fixed it, but I noticed about 8-9 big drops of red fluid in my parking spot. Leaking has stopped, but it's clear that the transfer case may have been stressed/hurt by this debacle.

I'm taking it in for inspection tomorrow. If things are FUBAR, I have a few questions.

- ENR34 manual transmission transfer cases seem impossible to source. Can a GTR transfer case fit? Or if not the whole thing, just seals or components? GTR is 6spd, mine's 5spd, so I'm thinking no, but lmk.

- Finding a few RB25DE NEO AWD auto transmissions for sale, for decently cheap. If my only option is to swap to auto, what else will I need besides an auto-specific gauge cluster, and associated wiring?

- I imagine the R32/33 GTS4 transmissions/transfer cases are a no-go? They're not NEO engines, so unsure.

- RB25DET/4WD setup from the Stagea, any parts that transfer over?

I did search up for this on SAU and google, very little info covered.

 

This is my first post, so apologies for breaking any rules, please let me know, and thanks for the help.

ENR34 manual transmission transfer cases are 33100-23U00 which is shared with all of the R32/R33 GT-Rs and GTS-4s. And the C34 Stagea. Do not bother with automatics, that is a huge effort to swap and the car will be worse for it. And an automatic transfer case does not have the right housing for the shifter which comes out the back of the transmission and goes through the transfer case.

I already posted my response on reddit but if you didn't see it there here it is:

You have almost certainly damaged the transfer case, the only question is how badly. Nobody can tell you how bad without more information. If you have a giant hole in the transfer case pissing out all the transfer case fluid then you need a new one. If it's not that bad then the only question is whether you burned up the clutches. Drain the transfer case oil and inspect for metal on the drain plug magnet. Small black filings are normal. Big chunks of metal or a ton of black fuzzies not so much. Fluid should be nice and red. Any other color isn't great. If the color is reasonably red and there's not a bunch of clutch material discoloring it or anything like that you probably got away with insubstantial excess wear not worth trying to fix.

If you have to rebuild or replace the transfer case keep in mind you have to pull the transmission to get it off.

You guys are amazingly knowledgeable and I appreciate it all so much. I’m currently at the local RB tuning shop, getting her inspected and diagnosed, for the t-case debacle and everything else. I’ll keep you guys posted!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...