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Getting the R32 frontend lower

Josh K.
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Josh K. Rookie

Josh K.

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Has anyone moved the R32 FUCA outer pivot point down to allow more compression? It seems like the R32 front suspension is not happy about going low... I just swapped R32 strut towers (full GTR drivetrain, RB25/30) into my S13 and she sits a little high. I've also been looking for better control arms that don't bind but I only see bad feedback about what's on the market. Images show full compression (on jack) and then ride height with not much bump (1.5" maybe).

 

Knowing what I know now I would have gone R33 frontend but that ship has sailed. Looking to make the best out of the R32 bits.

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Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

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I guess that wasn't exactly a bolt in swap :rofl:

Generally the best option is just not to go too low since you can get reasonable handling out of an R chassis at a little below factory height.

If you want to keep going down, there are ball joint spacers for the bottom of the hub, not really much you can do at the top without going very custom (which...you already have...)

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GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

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No, you can't move the outer pivot point down. Well, not far enough to obtain any benefit, anyway. There's only a few mm of clearance in there to the end of the control arm. You'd have to cut up and open out the pocket of the upright to make space, and then you start to encroach on tyre space. Choose your compromise. I know which one I'd choose - the one that doesn't require all that metalwork on the upright for almost no gain.

Given the surgery you've already done, the answer probably lies in moving the inner bracket upwards.

7 hours ago, Josh K. said:

I've also been looking for better control arms that don't bind but I only see bad feedback about what's on the market.

Use the GKTech ones. You just have to remember that you have spherical joints in there and perform maintenance regularly enough.

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Josh K. Rookie

Josh K.

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25 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

No, you can't move the outer pivot point down. Well, not far enough to obtain any benefit, anyway.

Moving the holes down also allows me to shave material off of the top. This way it can travel farther without risk of hitting the strut tower up top. I might just buy another upright and start playing with different positions and check how the suspension reacts.

For now, I'll just get the GKTech FUCA's like you suggested. I was shocked the first time I cycled the suspension and found it had so much bind up top. I initially thought I got a dimension wrong for strut tower/crossmember placement... 

Here's my Instagram if anyone wants to follow along... 風水 (@feng_shui_garage) • Instagram photos and videos

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

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If you want the car lower without having to do it by shortening the suspension unit itself (ie, conventionally, by shorter springs or lowered perches on coilovers) and thus causing yourself the geometry problems of the arms all pointing up at the sky, then you need drop spindles. Time to open up the wallet, swat the various moths that come flying out, and pony up for....

https://au.gktech.com/products/v2-super-lock-r32-r33-r34-z32-front-knuckles?_pos=173&_fid=057415f49&_ss=c

which gives you a free 20mm drop, along with some other geometry improvements.

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Josh K. Rookie

Josh K.

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9 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

If you want the car lower without having to do it by shortening the suspension unit itself (ie, conventionally, by shorter springs or lowered perches on coilovers) and thus causing yourself the geometry problems of the arms all pointing up at the sky, then you need drop spindles. Time to open up the wallet, swat the various moths that come flying out, and pony up for....

https://au.gktech.com/products/v2-super-lock-r32-r33-r34-z32-front-knuckles?_pos=173&_fid=057415f49&_ss=c

which gives you a free 20mm drop, along with some other geometry improvements.

Those are RWD only unfortunately. 

I think at this point I may switch my plan from building the RB30 to building another motor. I have an RB25 bock/head and RB26 crank/rod/pistons. If I build that motor, I can raise the cross member up 1" which helps a ton with ground clearance and then if I modify the knuckle arm at the top I can get more bump without causing the geo to be all whacked.

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